Sew a Bustier top (Sewing pattern and tutorial)

The bustier here is a strapless, cupped and cropped fitting top , that hugs the body’s contours around the bust and waist – a modern take on the traditional corset. It defines the waist and gives you a nice shape. It can be worn alone or layered under other garments. You can wear it as it is with jeans, pants and even skirts or under a jacket, depending on the occassion or weather.

Fabric choices for the bustier top

You can use all types of different fabrics for making a bustier top. Satin and silk make it look fancy, cotton is great for everyday wear, and lace adds a pretty touch. You can explore other fabrics also to create the style you want – opt for velvet for special occasions for its rich texture, or choose embroidered net for a party-ready look.

Marking the first draft Bodice pattern

Take these measurements on the body

• Length from shoulder to hem (14 -15 inch)
• Shoulder width (from one shoulder tip to the other)
• Distance between Bust points
• Under bust round
• Chest round
• Bust round
• Waist round
• Arm hole

These are the basic measurements you need to draft the pattern for a basic bodice. Add 2.5 inches to 1/4 of bust, 1/4 of chest, 1/4 of waist. 

Make a basic bodice with these dimensions – front bodice and back bodice. (The 2.5 inches added is for the dart and the seam allowance). Other than these and the exact measurement on your body, no other ease is given to the bodice measurement.

Make a basic bodice pattern for your body measurements on a paper.

Mark the bustier markings on paper

Seperate the front bodice and back bodice.

Front bodice for the bustier

Draw a circle around the bust point. Radius of this circle is half of the distance between the 2 bust points.

Take the distance between the bust points. Divide this by 2

In this case it is 3.25″

Make a circle of this size around the bust point

Extend the bust point line to the top, bottom and the sides.

Mark the darts on top and the bottom-The darts should be marked 1.5 inches on either side.

Mark the top curve along the circle.

This is your front bustier pattern after the darts are cut out.

BACK BODICE DRAFTING

Cut out the paper pattern for the back bodice for the bustier

Add 1 inch extra at the center line for adding fasteners. Mark the bust line on the back bodice

Mark the dart along the bust point till the bustline, starting from the bottom edge.

Mark the top edge curved to the armhole as in the picture below.

Now cut it out along the dart lines.

The back bodice pattern will look like this on paper.

Pattern drafting -Step 2

This second step is necessary because you need to add seam allowance along the dart lines. So you will have to keep the cut out patterns on a new paper and draw around it near the darts and the top edge. 1/4 inch seam allowance would do. Add seam allowance at the top too.

Now cut this new pattern out.

Back bodice

Cut it out along the dart points. Mark the extra seam allowance on paper again as you did with the front bodice.

Cut out fabric pieces with the pattern pieces – front bodice and back bodice

Keep the paper pattern on the fabric, mark around and cut it out.

This way, cut out the back bodice

and front bodice pattern pieces.

The front bodice paper pattern will have 2 pieces. When you cut this on fabric, for the full front bodice it will open up to be 3 pieces. This is because, the pattern is marked on folded fabric.

You get 3 fabric pieces like this for the front bodice of the bustier.

Cut out lining too.

Lining is cut the same as the outer fabric pieces.

Assemble the pieces

Start joining the front bodice – outer and lining.

Remember to clip the seam allowance, and finger press the seam open. Do this for all the seams you sew. Not an optional step.

Sew lining to front bodice

Now , you have to join the outer pieces of front bodice to lining. Keep the outer pieces of front bodice and lining of front bodice together. (right sides to the inside)

Sew at the top.

Clip the seam allowance.

Turn this right side out.

Sew back bodice to lining

Do this same for the back bodice pieces as well.

Join front bodice to back bodices

You can simply sew the bodices together or do a little maeuvering to make a better finish.

If I am a beginner i would just sew the seams straight and join the front and back bodices simply

If I am ok with some manipulation, this other method creates a better neater seam inside.

Insert the back bodice inside the front bodice outer piece and lining( making sure that the outer fabric pieces of front and back pieces are together, facing each other. Pin in place and stitch the side seams now. When you turn the piece right side out you have a very neat finish with the fabric edges of the seam all inside.

Join the other side too.

Sew binding to bottom edge

Cut out binding (length of the bottom edge of the bustier top plus 1 inch extra). Leave a little extra at the start and start sewing.

After this fold the sides and take the binding to the back, fold the edge and hand sew in place.

Add Fastener

Now you have to sew fasteners to your bustier top.

You can either sew a zipper or sew small hooks and eye.

Related post: Sewing tutorial to make a corset top ; Strapless tops you can make