Make a corset top (Sewing tutorial)

The corset top is a type of top that is inspired by the corsets that were popular hundreds of years back. Corsets are tight-fitting bodices that are designed to tightly contain the body into a particular shape by cinching the waist with lacing ties, tight-fitting form, and boning strips. A corset top is not as rigid but is form-fitting and may or may not have lacing and boning. In this case, there is no lacing or boning—just a good-looking top.

Here is how to draft the pattern and sew the corset top.

Body measurements you should take to make the top – Length needed for the top (I have taken 20 inch); Your Hip round (or lower waist round) where the top will end. Bust round, and real waist round. Shoulder tip to shoulder tip measurement; And Bust point to bust point.

Use these measurements to mark the bodice pattern on paper.

Back Bodice for the corset top

marking the front bodice of the corset top

Mark a point on the bust line y = 1/2 of bust point to bust point plus 1/2 inch. From this mark down the dart line.

Mark a dart 1/2 inches to either side of the dart line.

Make a line from the armhole line across the bodice – this is your cutting line for the top edge. Mark it slightly slanting.

Cut out and separate the pattern pieces.

This is one side of the back bodice. Cut the other side too.

When you keep this pattern piece on fabric, remember that you have to add seam allowance at the top edge and on the edges at the dart line.

Back pattern will be 4 pieces.

Front bodice for the corset top

Mark the front bodice as in the drawing below.

Mark the dart point on the bust line : it is to be marked 1/2 inch from the center fold line. From there mark q which is 1/2 of the distance between the apex points.

Mark a circle with this point as the center. The diameter of the circle will be the distance of y-q (This is the distance from the bust point to the point under the bust)

Mark 2 darts on top and bottom of the circle. Mark the dart on the bottom 3/4 inch from the bust line.

Mark the shape around the circle as in the picture below. Make sure that near the armhole it should be 1/2 inch down from the chest line and that at the center fold there is a 1/2 inch gap (Refer picture below).

Mark a 1 1/2 inch wide dart under the bust line. 3/4 inch to either side of the dart line.

Cut out the darts so that the front bodice pattern is cut into 6 pieces.

For one side it will be like this.

Add seam allowance.

To each of the cut pattern pieces, you have to add seam allowance. (Keep the 1 and 2 pieces as one and mark the seam allowance) (you do not need to add extra seam allowance to the side seams because seam allowance is already added there)

Related posts: Names of different corset styles

Fabric you can use to make a corset top

The best fabric that you can make this corset fabric is a brocade or a damask fabric with nice decorative patterns woven into it creating a luxurious look. You need a fabric that wouldnot stretch too much. As for lining, you can use silk for its softness, cotton for its cheapness and canvas for its structure. Decide what is your priority.

Mark this pattern on the fabric (on folded fabric). Cut it out.

You have 9 pieces for the front bodice. Cut out lining also the same way.

Start sewing the pattern pieces together. Join the bra cup pieces. Clip the seam allowance.

Sew the front pattern pieces together, one by one.

Front bodice.

Attach the back bodice to the front bodice on either sides.

Sew the lining the same way

Join the outer corset to the lining by keeping the 2 pieces together rightsides to the inside. Sew the top and bottom edges together. Clip the seam allowances

At this point, keep a strap (if you want a straped top) sandwiched inside on either sides. Make fabric straps by how to sew a tube on a sewing machine or bias cut fabric pieces sewn together as straps.