Make your own Skirt block

A skirt block is a basic, fitted pattern for a skirt ; It would not have any design details, such as waistbands, zippers, or hems. The advantage of creating a skirt block is that you can find the correct fit you want according to your measurements at hand, always. Keep this block as a foundation for all the skirts you will make later.

Add a wasitband, or just a facing, give it a peplum or a frill or flounce at the hem. Here is a tutorial on how to draft a basic skirt block

Measurements Needed to make the skirt block:

Waist round : Measure around the narrowest part of your waist.
Hip round: Measure around the widest part of your hips.
Skirt Length : Measure from the waist down to where you want the skirt to end.
Hip Depth : Measure from the waist down to where you took the hip circumference measurement (usually this is about 20cm or 8 inches or sometimes 9 inches down from the waist).

Drafting the Skirt Block

Step 1: Draw the basic outline

Mark a rectangle of length skirt length minus waistband length.

Draw a rectangle on your pattern paper or fabric using the Hip Depth as the vertical measurement and a quarter of your (Hip Circumference plus 1″ for ease) as the horizontal measurement.

Step 2: Mark the waist and hip Lines

Divide the rectangle into two parts: The upper part (waist to hip) and the lower part (hip to desired length).

Mark the line at your Hip Depth measurement; this is your hip line. The top of the rectangle is your waist line.

Step 3: Shape the waist

Mark up from A to X in a curved line.

Take your Waist round and divide by 4. Add 1/4 inch ease. Add 1 inch for dart.

Step 4: Darts

Place two darts at the front and two at the back.

For the front, each dart can be 1/2 inch; The length of the dart = 4″

This is how it will look when cut on fabric

Step 4: Draft the back skirt block

The back is marked almost the same except that darts are 3/4 inches (instead of 1/2 inch) and a zipper allowance of 1.5 inches is given at the center.

Smoothly connect the waist and hip points: Use a ruler (or a hip curve or even French curve for more accuracy) to draw a gentle curve from the waist to the hip line.

On the waistline, evenly space the front and back darts, ensuring they point towards the fullest part of the buttocks for the back darts and are evenly spaced at the front. Make sure the darts are symmetrical.

Step 5: Add Length

Extend the side seam.

From the hip line, extend the side seam down to the desired Skirt Length. Draw the line straight down ; or you can draw it slightly tapered in, if you want a pencil skirt block.

Step 6: Complete the Hemline

Draw the hemline: Connect the ends of the side seams at the bottom with a straight line for the hem, ensuring it’s parallel to the waistline.

Step 7: Add Seam Allowances

Add seam allowances around all edges – you can do this when you are cutting it on your fabric.

Step 8. Cut out the skirt block and store

Carefully cut around the outer edges, including the seam allowances.

When cutting the back pattern for the skirt, Cut it on folded fabric

Then cut through the center fold.

Label your block. Mark the front and back, and note any important details like the grainline or fold line, zipper allowance. Store somewhere safe. And use it again and again to sew your favourite skirts. You can either sew a straight skirt or give more fullness, or add design elements like pleats, pockets, or slits. Checkout the type of fasteners for clothing that you can use with skirts – usually zippers and hooks are used.

Adding waistbands to this skirt block is a breeze if you learn from this post – adding a waistband on this skirt. Another one for adding zipper to the waistband or make a separate elastic waistband.

Related post:

Make a bodice block pattern

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