Wool is the general name given to the fabric made from the fiber derived from the fleece of Sheep and also of Camels, llama, Vicuna, Cashmere goat, and Angora goat. There are several such animals whose fleece or hair produces fibers that are used to make woolen textiles. And they also have different varieties, resulting in various types of wool fabrics.
There are many many reasons you will find wool fabric as one of the most coveted and expensive fabrics in any fabric shop you go -like its softness, durability, comfort, warmth, luxurious looks. You can check out more about the properties of wool here.
Woolen fabrics and Worsted fabrics
Basically, wool fabrics are categorized as Woolen fabrics and Worsted fabrics depending on the length of the fibers that make up their yarn.
Short wool fibers make woolen fabrics and hence they have a tufted fuzzy surface texture. They are heavy thick and bulky and are less expensive than Worsted fabrics which are made with tightly twisted longer yarns. Worsted fabrics have a hard, smooth surface with a special subtle luster. Woolen fabrics can be plain weave woolens or wool knits.
For yet another general categorization If you hear carpet wool, as the name suggests it is suitable only for making carpets. The fibers are long and coarse. Apparel wool is the fine wool that makes garments. More categorizations of wool fabrics are done according to the animal, type of weaves, where the animal is bred, the texture of the fabric etc as you can see in the list below.
Related post:Animal fibers and fabrics.
Different names for Wool Fabrics
Sheep Wool
Sheep wool is the natural fiber obtained from the fleece of sheep – you know, the thick, curly hair on sheep. Sheep’s wool is the most common and widely recognized source of wool.
There are so many different breeds of sheep around the world, and the wool made from the fleece of these different breeds are also different.
Classification of wool according to the type of sheep, location, etc.
1. Merino wool
Merino Wool is the softest and finest of all wool fabrics. This long-lasting fabric is one of the most desirable wool fabrics and expensive as well. It is made from the fleece of Merino sheep and is made mostly in Australia and Newzealand.
Merino wool itself can vary in quality depending on the thickness of its wool fibers. Merino wool sweaters and socks are very popular because it is a lot less itchy than all the other sheep wool fabrics out there. Read more about merino wool here.
Uses of Merino wool : Merino wool is used to make all kinds of clothes like sweaters, cardigans, socks, sportswear. It is in great demand to make accessories like scarves, hats, and gloves. Other uses of merino wool are for making Outdoor gear , undergarments and bedding and blankets. Baby clothes like onesies and sleepsuits made of merino wool are in great demand as the fabric is soft on the baby’s sensitive skin. Cycling jersey, and running apparel are also made using this fabric as the fabrics have temperature regulating property and moisture wicking.
2. Border Leicester Wool
Border Leicester wool is named after the place of origin of the long wool breed sheep whose long fleece is used to make this beautiful fabric. It is a very durable fabric that can last a very long time. It is used for making coats and dresses
Uses of Border Leicester wool : In clothing, this wool is used to make coats and jackets mainly. You can also make scarves, hats, gloves etc. It is also used to make home furnishings like upholstery, curtains and drapes and rugs and carpets. You can also use Border Leicester wool fibers for felting crafts, tapestry and weaving projects..
3. Cheviot
Cheviot is a woolen fabric made originally from the coarse wool of the Cheviot sheep raised in the Cheviot hills of England; Generally, the term is used to describe medium to heavy woolen fabrics with a shaggy surface texture.
Uses of Cheviot wool fabric : It is popular as a coating fabric. The fabric is used to make heavy coats. The coarse texture of thefiber gives the fabric a rugged appearance, making it suitable for outdoor clothing. It is also popular as bedding material and also for making blankets and throws.
4. Shetland wool
This is a wool fabric made from sheep found in Scotland. It has all the fine qualities of the best of wool fabrics – and keeps a person very warm. It is very suitable for making winter clothing. The fabric is a little rough though.
Uses of Shetland wool : Shetland wool is famous for making sweaters, cardigans, scarves and all kinds of winter clothing and accessories like gloves, hats, mittens and even thermal under garments.
5. Melton wool
Wool Melton is a felted medium or heavy weight somewhat bulky fabric with a smooth nap.
Uses of Melton wool : Melton wool is commonly used for coats. The classic pea coat, often worn by sailors, is traditionally made from Melton wool. You can make trench coats, overcoats and all kinds of cold-weather outerwear with this material.
Classification of wool according to process, quality, etc.
6. Lambswool
This refers to wool fabric made from fleece that is shorn when a lamb is just six or seven months old as its first shearing. The fabric made with this wool is very strong and soft and does not need much processing. It is considered as the best wool in terms of quality.
Uses of Lambswool fabric: This very soft high end fabric is used to make sweaters, scarves, shawls, socks, beabies, undergarments, baby clothes, suits and blazers.
7. Plain or Twill Worsted wool suitings
Worsted wool has a smooth finish and is durable. It is the most popular fabric for making coats, jackets trousers etc. Worsted wool is made after wool fibers are spun into yarn which is then knitted or woven into fine fabrics. After the fabric is made it goes through a process in which unwanted fibers are removed which makes it very smooth.
8. Virgin wool
This is wool taken from a lamb’s first shearing, which will be very fine and soft or wool that has never been processed or used in any way.
Uses of virgin wool fabrics : This fabric is used to make high-quality garments like suits, jackets, and fine woolen clothing.
9. Boiled Wool
Boiled wool is a special stretchy, felted heavyweight wool fabric with insulating qualities. It is dense, durable and water-resistant because the wool undergoes a special washing process which makes it thick. It is used for making berets, jackets, cardigans, vests, coats etc.
Uses of Boiled wool: This thick felted wool fabric is used to make coats, jackets, vests, and cardigans as well as good quality hats and berets. Boiled wool is a used in wet felting, where it can be transformed into a variety of shapes and forms to create three-dimensional art pieces and sculptures.
10. Super wool
This is wool that is categorized according to the fine quality of its fibers. It measures the fibers used per inch of the cloth, similar to thread count.
When you go shopping for wool you will hear classifications like Super 100, 110, 120, 150 etc. Higher the number finer the wool
11. Wool Chinchilla
This is a fabric with curled tufts or nubs on the fabric surface. This special texture is made on a chinchilla machine. First, the nap is made using the machine and then rubbed to create the rounded curled tufts.
Uses of Wool chinchilla : Coats, jackets, vests, handbags, clutches, trims, cushions.
12. Organic wool
Various toxic materials like harsh scouring agents, dyes and bleaches used to clean and whiten the wool, formaldehyde, conditioners, moth-proofing, harsh chemical dyes, and other, often toxic additives to finish the fabric and garments are used in conventional wool production. Organically grown wool fabric and wool garments are free of all these.
Organic wool is obtained from sheep that have been raised without synthetic or harmful chemicals under healthy, natural, and responsible animal husbandry methods.
The sheep graze on pesticide-free land and they are raised with such organic animal husbandry methods that they do not have external and internal parasites which may have had to be treated with antibiotics. Chemicals are not used in the wool production process resulting in the organic wool fabric which is free of all carcinogenic or allergy creating particles.
Classification of wool according to the type of fabric made
13. Gabardine
Gabardine is a firm tightly woven fabric with a diagonally ribbed surface (twill weave) on one side and smooth texture on the other. It is very durable and strong
Uses of gabardine fabric: Garbardine fabric is used to make trousers, suits, jackets, overcoats etc. You can make nice looking skirts with the fabric. It is also suitable for making bags. Its durability and smooth finish makes it a favourote pant fabric.
14. Loden
This is a water-resistant woolen material.
Uses of Loden fabric: It is used for making coats. All the other things that you use wool can be made with loden fabric – coats, jackets, vests, skirts, hats, pants, trousers, accessoriesm blankets and throws
15. Wool jersey
This is a knit fabric (hand knitted or machine knitted) made with wool yarn.
Uses of wool jersey : It is used to make sweaters, cardigans etc. Lightweight wool jersey is used to make t-shirts, dresses, leggings, scarves and base layers that will regulate body temperature and wicks moisture away from the skin.
16. Boucle
This refers to woolen fabrics with curly twisted loops on the surface. This is a result of its special construction. The curled loopy surface texture makes this fabric unique.
Uses of Boucle fabric : Bouclé fabric is often used to make stylish and warm and textured coats, jackets and suits. You can also make pretty ponchos with the fabric. Boucle vests also look nice. You can also make throw blankets, cusions, with the fabric. Accessories made with the fabric like mittens, headbands earmuffs, shalws, bags are nice looking.
17. Wool Batting
This is the inside layer used in quilts and beddings for insulation – you will get batting made with wool fibers which are superior to the batting made with cotton or polyester.
Uses of wool batting: It is used as lining in winter clothes like jackets, vests. The obvious uses are inside quilts, comforters, seat pads, wall hangings and for craft projects.
18. Broadcloth
Broadcloth is a dense, strong woolen cloth.
Uses of broadcloth fabric: You can use broadcloth to make dress shirts, blouses, and skirts. It is also used in School uniforms
19. Herringbone patterned wool
This wool fabric has a distinctive zigzag weaving pattern which looks like the skeleton of a herring fish. This is a much in demand fabric for making jackets and trousers.
Uses of Herringbone wool : This elegant looking fabric is a classic fabric choice for tailored suits and jackets. It is also used to make pants, skirts, uniforms, scarves etc.
Houndstooth, Argyle, Fair isle, Chevron and Basketweave are other wool fabrics with nice looking patterns.
20. Tweed
Wool tweed is a very popular wool fabric best suited for making jackets, waistcoats, hats and other winter clothing. The fabric is so named after the Tweed River in Scotland where it was first made.
It may have a plain or twill weave and has an attractive check or herringbone pattern with a subtle rough texture. It is traditionally made from coarse homespun wool.
Subtle color effects are seen on its surface because of the way it is made by twisting differently colored woolen strands into a two- or three-ply yarn. It is a very durable fabric, moisture-resistant, breathable and warm.
Uses of tweed fabric: Jackets, suits, trousers, skirts, dresses, overcoats, vests, waistcoats, hats, scarves, bags and other accessories.
Read more in detail about Tweed here.
21. Wool felt
Felted wool is a non-woven fabric. Wool felt is the most common and very popular felt fabric. It is soft and more supple than acrylic felt and is very durable.
Uses of wool felt : It is used for making home decor items, hats, and jackets and for craft projects.
You can make your own wool-felt easily at home with some wool fibers. Read more about how to felt. Know more about felt: Types of felt material
22. Lincoln Wool
Lincoln wool fabrics is a high-quality wool fabric that is very popular for making suits and other garments. It is expensive and highly regarded for its appearance.
Uses of Lincoln Wool : Lincoln Wool is used to make high end suits, coats and jackets. It is also used to make trousers, dresses, skirts, vests and waistcoats.
23. Flannel
Flannel is a popular wool fabric in plain or twill weave which has a brushed or napped surface on either one or both sides. It is popularly used to make night wear clothes like pajamas.
Uses of wool flannel : Wool flannel shirts are popular for fall and winter fashion. Flannel pajamas are popular loungewear option for men and women for winter nights. Wool flannel is used to make warm and stylish coats and jackets, vests, scarves. It is also used to make warm and cozy blankets.
24. Tartan
This is a traditional Scottish woolen cloth with a distinctive plain or check fabric pattern.
Uses of Tartan fabric: The most famous use of tartan cloth is to make Scottish kilts. It is also used for making jackets, suits and skirts.
25. Chenille
This is a velvety textured fabric with a soft tufted pile surface made with woolen fibers.
Uses of chenille: It is usually used to make cushions, bedding, rugsm carpets, throws etc. It is also used to make cardigans, sweaters and scraves.
26. Wool Sharkskin
This is a wool fabric with a pronounced twill weave and smooth surfaced two-toned woven appearance. The yarns in warp and weft are alternated with two colors like white and another color which results in the two-toned look.
27. Wool Crepe
Wool crepe is a lightweight to medium-weight wool fabric known for its crinkled or pebbled surface texture. It has a slightly grainy feel.
Uses of wool crepe: This fabric has a good drape and is often used for dresses, skirts, and suits.
28. Wool Delaine
Wool delaine is a lightweight, plain-woven wool fabric with a soft and smooth texture and a sheen.
Uses of wool delaine: It is commonly used for making dresses, shawls, and lightweight outerwear.
29. Wool Gauze
Wool gauze is an airy and sheer woolen fabric known for its open weave and lightweight nature.
Uses of Wool gauze: It is used to make delicate and breathable clothing items like scarves, shawls, and lightweight summer garments.
30. Wool Serge
Wool serge is a tightly woven, twill-textured fabric with a smooth surface. It is medium to heavy in weight and is highly durable.
Uses of Wool Serge: Wool serge is often chosen for making uniforms, military garments, and trousers, as well as some heavy outerwear.
31. Wool Voltaire
Wool voltaire is a luxurious and finely woven wool fabric. It is known for its soft and silky feel.
32. Wool Barathea
Wool barathea is a closely woven, twill-textured fabric with a slight sheen. It is medium to heavyweight
Uses of wool barathea: This is commonly used for formalwear, including tuxedos, eveningwear, and high-quality suits.
33. Venetian wool
Venetian wool is a lightweight, plain-woven wool fabric with a smooth and crisp texture.
Classification of wool made from other animals than sheep
Suits, jackets, trousers, skirts, overcoats vests, overcoats and dresses
34. Alpaca wool
This is a soft luxurious fuzzy textured wool fabric made from fleece of Alpaca(camel family) with a cotton knitted or woven back. The best advantage of using this wool is that it is hypoallergenic. Other than that it is as soft and warm as any other superior wool like merino or cashmere.
35. Mohair
Mohair is a very soft silky and lustrous heavy-weight woolen fabric made from Angora goat. The fabric has a very fuzzy surface. It is very expensive but because of the beautifully luxurious and lustrous look, it is much coveted. It is mainly used for making coats and jackets.
36. Cashmere
This is one of the finest and softest of all textiles. It is made from fiber obtained from the Tibetan Wild (Cashmere) goat. The clothes made from this fabric is very warm but the weight of the fabric as such is very light
37. Vicuna wool
This is wool made from the fleece obtained from the vicuna; it is said to be the most expensive of all fabrics as vicuna wool is rare wool. A Vicuna Jacket can cost up to $21,000 as seen here.
38. Camel hair
This is the fabric made from the undercoat of the Bactrian camel. The resultant tan or brown colored fabric is very soft and is used to make scares sweaters jackets and blankets. General use of the term describes soft heavy woolen fabrics without any genuine camel’s hair in it.
Wool according to fabric weight
39. Lightweight wool
If you think wool fabric is always thick and bulky you are wrong. For a lightweight drapey fabric made with wool fibers – there are many choices.
Lightweight wool is loosely but firmly woven and hangs very beautifully. Woolen Batiste is a very soft fine lightweight woolen fabric. Crepe is lightweight worsted wool; Albatross is a lightweight woolen fabric with a slightly crepe surface. Woolen challis is also lightweight. Wool challis is a plain weave woolen fabric and an absolute favorite for dressmaking.
Wool fabrics according to texture
From soft Cashmere and warm Merino to fuzzy Mohair and fluffy Alpaca, wool comes in many textures.
Camel wool is tough, while Virgin wool is pure and soft. Rare Vicuña wool is super soft.
While Wool gauze and Wool voile are delicate. Wool challis drapes nicely, and Wool crepe drapes and feels good for dresses. Wool gabardine is smooth and strong, and Wool flannel is fuzzy and cozy.
Wool jersey makes comfy sweaters. Wool batting is for fluffy enough for quilts.
Related post :Wool vs Acrylic – what is the difference; 10 things to note when sewing with wool; How to wash woolen clothes.; Different types of fur
Thanks for the info! Big Help
great information
My grandmother spoke often of a coat made of “kitten-ears” wool. Obviously this refers to the texture and not the source. Have you ever heard this term, and if so, what weave does it compare to in today’s terms?
I am sorry I do not know. Would she be talking about Angora wool which is very very soft
nice….i love this,…coz my duty about wool fabric and another fabric….its really help me,..But,… can you help me about cotton, silk and linen too….
i need your help…..
you can send another information about linen, silk, and cotton
Hi Yesa
Thanks for the comment. Here are some articles.
Silk – https://sewguide.com/different-types-of-silk-fabric/
Cotton – https://sewguide.com/cotton-fabric/
Linen – https://sewguide.com/linen-flax-fabric/
Alternatively You can find them by using the search button on the menu
Sarina
Dear….Sarina…
Thanx for your help,….