Have you noticed how a straw basket is woven? There is a distinct pattern to it. The basket weave pattern on woven fabrics takes after this pattern of weaving on the baskets, I guess.
Two or three of the straws/reeds interlacing with each other in an under over, under over pattern. You get the similarity?
What is a basket weave pattern?
The basket weave pattern is a variation of the plain weaving style of making woven fabrics. The pattern is a result of adding more than one filling and/or warp yarns. In this weave two or more warp and weft threads are woven side by side as one.
The basketweave pattern is created by weaving two warp yarns (vertical threads) alternately over two thicker weft yarn (horizontal thread) and then reversing the pattern (2×2), resulting in a checkerboard or grid-like appearance.
The type of warps and wefts may vary in its size, twist, texture and color. For eg in oxford cloth the yarns used in filling are coarser than the yarns used as warp threads.
In plain weave, just one each yarn is used as filling and warp yarns. In basket weave these more than one yarns are treated as one, though ; which is why it is similar to a plain weave.
And you may have seen this weave everyday, if you have a fabric covered couch like I do. The easiest examples of the basket weave fabrics will be found in the upholstery section of your fabric showroom. You will find that many sturdy looking heavyweight fabrics in this section are made in this weave.
Basket weave fabrics can be made of wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics just like any other woven fabric.
Basket weave fabrics
Oxford cloth
Oxford is a popular shirt fabric with a breathable basket weave construction. Its is considered a good fabric for summer clothes because of durability, breathability and easy to care for nature . The name “Oxford” is derived from the fabric’s historical association with the prestigious University of Oxford. The basketweave makes the fabric comfortable to wear in warmer months. It is used to make casual shirts, workwear, and outerwear.
Sail cloth
Sailcloth is a specialized fabric usually used for making sails for boats and other marine applications. It can withstand exposure to water, wind, and UV radiation. The basketweave pattern of the fabric is a part of its strong and stable fabric structure.
Canvas
Canvas fabric is a heavyweight cotton fabric with a basketweave fabric structure. Canvas is known for its durability and resistance to abrasion, making it suitable for heavy-duty applications. It is used for making clothing, accessories, bags, upholstery, and outdoor gear.
The basketweave construction provides canvas with exceptional strength, allowing it to withstand wear and tear. And helps maintain the fabric’s shape and stability
Monk’s cloth.
Monk’s cloth is a variation of the standard standard 2×2 basketweave construction. It usually has a 4*4 basket weave construction, though it can have different structure too.
Properties of basket weave fabrics
| Property | Features of Basketweave fabrics |
|---|---|
| Texture | Unique and textured appearance because of the weave. May be coarse and rough |
| Weight | Heavyweight, bulkier than other fabric weaves. |
| Breathability | Breathable |
| Strength | Mostly tear resistant |
| Durability | Loose weaves may lack durability. May be prone to snags |
| Drape | Drapey |
| Maintenance | Easy to maintain; Prone to Wrinkle fast |
| Use | Not suitable for structured things. Not for formal wear. Upholstery favourite. |
Basket weave fabrics are usually coarser than plain weave fabrics. They usually have a rougher texture.
They may also be more heavy weight.
These fabrics are said to be quite drapey and also quite breathable.
The strength of the fabric lies in the tightness of the weave. If a basket weave is tightly woven it can be quite stronger. But generally they are loosely woven.
Basket weave fabrics are said to be quite tear resitant. More than plain fabrics.
A loosely woven basket weave upholstery fabric may not be the most durable of fabrics, but the texture of the extra yarns in the pattern looks perfect. This is why these fabrics are quite popular in home decor for making curtains and upholstery covers. There is a unique charm to these fabrics.
Most of the basket weave fabrics are valued for their looks. Nothing plain about them. No pun intended.
The shirts made of basket weave fabrics like oxford cloth is considered as more casual wear than formal. They are quite soft.
Alternative names or variations for the basket weave
Hopsack weave. Matt weave
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Author: Sarina Tariq
