This is a tutorial on how to sew a simple skirt that you can put on easily, with a waistband that sits comfortably on the waist and drapes gracefully over the hips and legs.
Fabric for the skirt : Make this skirt in a flowy and drapey fabric that will fall smoothly over your curves. If you are choosing a natural fabric like printed voile, wash and dry the fabric before sewing with it. If you are making them with synthetic fabrics like polyester, you can wear them right out of the dryer – no ironing necessary! I am sewing a satin, which is quite thin and flowy, and will need a slip underneath.
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Measurement needed to sew the skirt
Measure your waist circumference & Length of the skirt that you need. (The skirt cannot be too long, only as long as the width of the fabric you have minus the measurement you calculate below as X. )
You also need to have 1 inch wide elastic for sewing this skirt.
Step 1. Finding the radius for the half circle skirt
(Waist circumference + 5) divided by 3.14 = X
Fold the fabric into 2 layers
Mark waistline and length
A-E = A-F = X
E-B = F-D = Length of the skirt
Mark up from E and F, 1/2 inches
Mark down from B & D, 1/2 inches
X here for a waist of 25 inches = 25 + 5 divided by 3.14 = 9.55
Step 2. Mark the pattern on a paper
Placing the tape on the corner of the paper, mark the radius A- E & A-F and also in between; Join the line – it will be a soft curved shape.
Likewise, mark the length E-D and F-D. Mark extra seam allowance of 1/2 inches, down.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the measure x and the length is maintained throughout the shape, not just at the sides. Measure every one inch to ensure this.
Step 3. Cut fabric for the skirt
Place the pattern on the fabric & cut it. When you cut the skirt, you get a half circle shape, as in the picture below.
Step 4. Sewing the pull-on skirt
Fold the half circle you got by the middle, wrong sides to the outside.
Sew the side edges of the skirt piece together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Step 5. Cut waistband of the skirt
Now cut fabric piece for making the waistband. For this, Measure the top edge of the skirt. Add 1 inch to this. This is the length of the waistband. Cut a 3 1/2 inch wide waistband piece in this length.
Step 6. Sew the waistband to the skirt.
Finish one long edge of the waistband piece- for this, just fold one long edge to the inside once, and sew.
Keep this waistband piece right side down on the waistband of the skirt as in the picture below. The starting edge is folded to the outiside.
Sew the long edges together.
As you reach the end, Overlap the other end of the waistband over the starting edge.
This is the closeup.
Bring it up and sew the overlapped pieces together.
Turn the waistband to the back. Fold the waistband by half. Arrange it so that the stitched edge of the waistband fabric is just under the seam joint line of the waistband – when you top stitch or stitch in the ditch from the top this will ensure that you are catching the fabric under it.
Remember to leave 2 inches unstitched as you sew the waistband. This is to insert the elastic. I am using a 1 inch elastic. To get the length of elastic you need for your waist, measure your waist snugly and cut in that exact measurement.
As you sew, ensure that the waistband seam edges are enclosed inside the waistband. They should not peek to the outside – this will be an untidy look.
Step 7. Insert elastic
You need to insert the elastic through the casing you have on the waistband with a pin or a bodkin. Sew the edges of the elastic with a 1 inch seam allowance or one inch overlap from both sides.
A close up of the waistband after the stitch in the ditch is done (This ensures that no stitching is seen on the top of the waistband)
Step 8. Sew the hem
Ideally, you should sew the hem of any skirt after 24 hours of hanging it on a hanger. This will level the hem. Now you can sew a hem that is best – a baby hem – this is the most suitable hem for curved edges.
For this – fold the bottom edge to the inside, about 1/2 inch. Sew along the folded edge – very close to it. Like, 1/8 inch close.
Clip the extra fabric after the stitching line.
Now, fold the hem again and sew in place.
Related posts : Sewing terms mentioned in this post : Stitching in the ditch ; Sewing a curved hem ; Sewing with satin fabric.; Sewing a circle skirt