Stitch in the Ditch: How to do the ditch stitching properly

What is stitching in the ditch? and Why should you stitch like that?

Stitch in the Ditch is the term used to denote the top stitching done (with the sewing machine) on the ‘ditch’ or ‘well’ formed in a seam, from the top, to catch the fabric on the back, after the seam allowance is pressed to one side. It is done to make the stitching line less noticeable on the face of a garment. 

It is usually done with a matching exact color thread and a regular stitch length so that the stitching magically disappears into the “ditch” of the seam.

This is an alternative way to invisibly stitch instead of hand sewing with Stitches that doesnot show outside

How to stitch in the ditch

Step 1. Decide where you want to start stitching in the ditch.

Step 2. Lower the sewing machine needle directly into the seam or “ditch” where the fabrics are joined.

Step 3. Start sewing slowly, keeping the needle in the ditch as you go. This means that the needle should go right into the seam without veering off to either side.

Step 4. Stitch slowly and steadily along the seam, following the ditch as closely as possible. You may need to maneuver the fabric slightly to ensure your stitches stay in the ditch.

Step 5. When you reach a corner or need to change direction, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric to continue stitching along the next seam.

Step 6. When you reach the end of your stitching line or return to your starting point, backstitch a few stitches to secure the thread.

Here is a video which explains it neatly. 

3 instances where you need to stitch in the ditch & How to stitch them

Bias binding

You can sew bound edges on necklines, sleeves, armholes, sleeve plackets, welt pockets and even hemlines this way.

Keep the bias binding tape right sides together with the fabric. Stitch the edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

When the sewing  is finished, fold the bias tape over the edge to the back. It should extent a little over the seam you have just sewn.

You may want to pin in place or baste stitch so that it does not come open.

Now stitch from the top over the seam stitch you have already stitched. When you sew, use your hands to keep the fabric taunt, or You can pull the binding to the other side so that the seam is visible clearly and the stitching is done exactly on the previous seam line. Later press the binding back over the ditch so that the stitching is not visible.

Waistband making

This is similar to bias binding – you can sew like this for sewing waistbands on skirts and pants – no visible sewing line on the waistband at all.You will be sewing along the waistband seam line from the top and thus attaching the inner portion of the waistband.

When sewing a waistband, you fold the waistband over the top edge and then fold the waistband to the back and turn the edge to the inside and stitch in the ditch from the top.This way the waistband  folded edge is caught in the stitching from the top, and it is not at all noticeable from the top, that you have sewn like that.

This may sound confusing but believe me, when you do it, it is a very nice finish to get – very neat and professional. There is no stitching line on the face of the waistband at all. 

To attach fabric pieces to another with a seam, almost invisibly

This is stitching on the right side, in a pressed-open seam, to fasten another piece of fabric underneath. Press open the seam allowance, keep the fabric underneath and stitch along the seam – thus joining the fabric pieces unobtrusively.

Related posts : Learn the basics of sewing;  Dress waistline types; Elastic waistbands