The halter neck dress is both a formal dress and a casual dress – and a very elegant one at that. It accentuates your shoulders, neck and back and hence a versatile wear for a lot of bodyshapes. Here is how to draft the pattern and sew a halter neck dress with a low back.
The measurements you should take to sew the dress
Bust round : Measure around the fullest part.
Waist round : Measure around the narrowest part of your waist.
Hip round: Measure around the widest part of the hip.
Dress Length: Measure from your shoulder (or where you want the neckline to be) to the desired hemline.
Back slit Length: Measure the slit you want on the back of the dress – preferably one or two inches above the knee for ease of walking.
Measure around the neck at the base – for the neckband.
The fabric to use for sewing this dress – I just have one suggestion – do not use the polyester satin that I used. It is a nuisance – frays a lot, slips when stitching and makes horrible snags everywhere you touch, not to say anything about pin holes, even needle holes. And the seams are weak. It is a nightmare for any self respecting sewist. I was deluded and bewitched by the beauty of the fabric. The real struggle started once I started cutting it.
Step 1. Draft a basic bodice for the front
Start with a rectangular piece of fabric for making your bodice. It should be 1/2 of your bust round plus some 4 inches wide and the bodice length of about 17 inches.
Fold the fabric and mark the pattern as given in the picture below.
Mark the neckline’s width at the top of the rectangle, then draw the desired neckline depth.
For the armholes, measure down from the top.
Step 2. Mark the new armhole
You need to cut up the above bodice to match a halter neckline. For this, Measure 3.5 inches up from F – this is L. From there connect to the armhole and this is your halterneck armhole line. Cut it out from your pattern.
Cut one front bodice and a lining of the same.
This is your front bodice opened.
Cut a lining the same way as the front bodice (from the same fabric or from a lining material)
Step 3. Mark and sew darts of front bodice
Mark the darts on the front bodice pattern – both the outer fabric and the lining.
Sew the darts one by one. Do this for the lining as well. Total 4 darts on the front bodice. Same for the lining.
Step 4. Sew the lining and bodice
Keep the front bodice and the lining pieces together, right sides to the inside. Sew them together at the armhole seam. Clip the seam allowance every 1/2 inch or so.
Turn to the other side.
Step 5. Draft the back bodice pattern
Cut the pattern straight across the armhole. Mark the dart on the bust point. Mark a dart of total 2 inches on either side of the back pattern.
Step 6. Mark and sew the back bodice darts
Step 7. Draft the skirt pattern
Cut out skirt patterns following this tutorial to make skirt blocks. Ensure that the bottom edge of the bodices and the skirts are all aligned and same.
Sew the darts on the skirts.
Step 8. Sew front bodice to skirt
Step 9. Sew back bodices to the skirt pieces
Step 10. Sew the left and right back pieces together
Keep the right and left back pieces together, right sides to the inside. Sew them together, leaving space at the top for zipper and for the slit.
Step 11. Complete the slit
At the bottom hem, sew the slit. Just turn the seam allowance to the inside and sew in place.
Step 12. Sew the lapped zipper on back bodice
Learn how to sew a lapped zipper here. For me, it is the best type for all dresses.
Turn to the other side and sew the other side of the zipper to the other side of the bodice
Bring it rightside up and it will look like this now.
Now, bring the fold of the material over the zipper teeth (It will automatically come on top of the zipper teeth) sew from the top. This lapped zipper application will form a lip over the zipper, concealing it.
Step 13. Finish the back bodice top edge
For this take the lining you have cut of the back bodice and finish the bottom edge. Keep the lining on top of the back bodice, right sides together .
Keep it on the top edge so that a little is curved to the back. Now sew them together at the top edge.
Take the lining to the back. Hand sew the lining to the zipper tape at the back.
Do this for the other side as well.
Step 14. Cut the neckband
Take the measure of neck round at the base of the neck ( slightly loosely) and then add 3 inches to this for overlap allowance and seam allowance – Cut two fabric pieces in this length, 3 inches in width ( or the width you want for the neckband)
Step 15. Sew neckband
First keep these two pieces rightsides to the inside and sew them together at the sides and one edge. Turn the band rightside out
Sew this to the front neckline.
Now sew the rest of the neckband. Press in place. Add hooks and thread bar as fasteners.
Step 16. Finish hem and side seams
If you are sewing with this type of inexpensive satin ; first of all I would advice not to, but it is cheap and looks nice. Do not use pins on the obvious part of the dress, use only on the seam allowance. If you want the fabric to hold steady, use patternweights or some alternative, not pins. If you can get hold of very fine pins (silk pins) or thin needle you can use those, if unavoidable. Lower the tension before sewing. A teflon foot would glide over the satin weave better than the steel one.
To prevent fraying at the cut edges, you can use many tactics – serging, zig zag, french seam, sealant and even using a lighter to harden the edges.
And I cannot emphasize the need for using low heat setting when pressing in between sewing this satin material. Even with the low heat setting, I wouls use a pressing cloth.
Related post: Halterneck top sewing pattern
