Lapped zippers – the best zipper insertion for dresses

Lapped zippers are the most popular of all zipper applications on garments. I think the reason is that in a lapped zipper you have a small (false) covering over the zip – so “no exposed zipper teeth”; the zipper opening is concealed very well from all and sundry – the best type of zipper application for most clothes if you do not want to show off your openings.

This lapped effect is an effect created by a creative sewing technique – the lapped zipper sewing technique.

Lapped zipper application is the most favored zipper attachment for side seam openings and sewing a zipper in the middle of fabric and even for skirt openings.

How to sew a lapped zipper – 2 best ways

Sewing Lapped zipper without a seam opening

Take your bodice and mark the area you want to attach the zipper – measure this length

Cut out a piece of facing piece measuring 3 inch width and length equaling the zipper opening length plus 2 inches.

Mark the center line on the facing piece – equaling the zipper length.Mark 1/4 inch to either side of this line , tapering to meet the center line at the bottom edge – see the picture below.

Keep the facing piece on the right side up bodice. Pin or baste stitch in place.Sew over the stitching line you have marked – the center line is the cutting line – your sewing line should not touch this cutting line at all.At the bottom edge make a single stitch across- this is to make the cutting to the tip easy and thus enable smooth turning out.

Cut through the cutting line.

Turn the facing to the back side.Pin in place or baste stitch in place.

Keep the zipper on the back of the garment on the left side and top stitch in place.Use zipper foot as you sew this

Now bring the other edge over the zipper opening and pin in place.Then stitch along the edge a little to the inside, catching the zipper edge and the garment. This edge will be placed over the zipper opening – giving that lapped effect.

Finish the neckline with bias tape.

How to sew a lapped zipper – the easy way for back of dresses with a seam opening.

You can sew a lapped zipper on a plain seam very easily. You need the two fabric pattern pieces and the zipper.

Step 1

As a first step to sewing a lapped zipper there sew a center seam.

You have to sew baste stitching for the length for the zipper opening and continue sewing regularly for the rest of the seam. 

Step 2

Next Press the seam open.

Step 3.

Arrange and Bring one seam allowance of the central seam  on one side and the rest of the garment on the other side.

Step 4

Open the zip . Now keep the zip on the central seam, wrong side up, aligning the zipper teeth directly on top  of the seam. Pin in place. Baste stitch along the seam allowance, where you have pinned.

Step 5

Flip the fabric so that the zipper front is facing you to one side of the cloth. Now there is a fold near the zipper teeth. Top stitch along the edge of this fold – you will have to use a zipper foot to sew close to the edge.

Step 6

Turn the whole thing right with the fabric pieces to both side of the zipper. Close the zipper. 

Sew some 1/4 inch from the center seam on the other side of the zipper (which is not sewn) catching the zipper seam allowance also. Make a horizontal stitch at the bottom. 

You will be Stitching up the side of the placket through three thicknesses — the zipper allowance, the seam allowance, and the garment. You can sew this from the wrong side of the garment or front of the garment.

Remove the machine-basting on the center seam and the zipper edge hand basting stitches.

Related Posts : How to sew zippers – the different methods ; Best way to sew Invisible zippers;  Zipper Repair – 10 problems and answers ; Different types of zippers.