Haori Jacket Pattern

I recenlty bought a Haori Jacket and wore it a couple of times to say the least. I don’t think the people in the neighbourhood or at the theater(s) want to see me in the same garment again. So I decided to re-construct the garment (without deconstructing it, ofcourse) and make a similar one. Here is how I did it.

When studying the structure of Haori jacket I noticed something – it is made of almost straight panels of fabric. So, you can say that making one is quite straight forward. You just need to cut these straight fabric pieces and join them. It’s loose and slouchy shape makes it free size and quite fitting for a lot of body sizes.

Something about the Haori jacket

Haori jacket is Japanese in origin. It is a short hip length kimono style coat with a drop shouldered slouchy style- traditionally it is worn over the Kimono . Originally, Haori were worn by men as a sort of formal coat over the kimono. Today it is a unisex garment – you and your husband can wear it by turns.

Original Haori jackets may have ties in the front. In this pattern the front hangs loosely, without ties.

You can make it in all types of fabrics. Silk may be what the traditional Hori jackets are made of, I guess, Beautifully dyed and embroidered Japanese silks. Choose a fabric that drapes well and is comfortable against your skin. You can also go for heavyduty fabrics for a winterready jacket. As you can see I have joined fabric scrap pieces from old project to make the fabric – the two layers make it quite thick.

How to sew a Haori Jacket

To clone the pattern I laid it flat in front and, traced the shapes of each and every part onto paper and then added seam allowances where necessary. And came up with a pattern.

You will need to cut two front panels (mirrored), one back panel, two sleeves, and a fabric strip for the collar. If you’re adding a lining, cut these pieces from the lining fabric as well.

I joined fabric pieces and then joined this to another backing fabric – this made the jacket thick enough – almost like a quilted jacket.

Step 1. Cut out the Front pattern pieces

Lay out your fabric and use the pattern to cut out the 2 pieces for the front of the jacket.

You can fold a 26 inch long and 27 inch wide fabric by half and mark the pattern for the 2 front panels on this. The D-E side of the below given pattern is where the fold of your fabric should come. You will be cutting open the middle.

After marking the above pattern, mark slight slope and curve along the shoulders and sides, as in the picture below – just 1/2 inches would do. Cut out the pattern along the red mark. ie. A-B-C-D-E-A. You will now have 2 mirrored front panels.

When cutting the front panels, it’s crucial to make sure they are mirror images of each other. Folding and cutting as mentioned earlier would create this, so don’t worry. This ensures that you create corresponding fabric panels for each side of the front.

Step 2 Cut out the back pattern

Copy the sleeve markings on the front panel to the back too. Ie give small slope to the shoulder and a small cuve at the side, as in the front panel.

Cut it on a folded fabric.

This is how it looks when the back is placed open.

Step 3. Join the back to the front panels

Step 4. Cut out the sleeves

Sew the sleeves to the body of the jacket, ensuring they are aligned correctly.

Step 5. Hem the jacket

Hem the bottom of the jacket, the end of the sleeves, and the front openings. Make sure the hemming is neat and even.

Step 6. Sew the collar

Measure the whole front edge with a measuring tape. Measure and cut a strip of fabric for the collar. Fold it lengthwise. You can use this to bind the front edge with this.

I made a fabric tube with a fabric strip 4 inches wide and then ironed it flat. Then just enclosed the garment edge with this tube and stitched in place.

Bind the fabric edge with the fabric tube. You have to be accurate about the length of the edge for this to work neatly – the fabric tube and the garment edge should be exactly be the same. Otherwise it will stick out and you will have to pick-out the stiches and do it again.