India could very well be called the United States of India – because each state of India (28 of them) is like a separate entity with its own language, culture, and food. Each so very diverse from the other. But one thing unifies the women of India—their love for traditional Indian clothing. Anarkali suit is one of them – It is a beautiful garment capable of making even the most ordinary girl look like a princess. Here is a tutorial to make the Anarkali suit easily in your own measurements.
Pattern drafting for the front bodice of Anarkali suit
A-B = C-D = Bust round Divided by 4 + 2″
K-H = Bust round Divided by 4 + 2″
A-F = Half of shoulder point to shoulder point
E-F = 2″
F-G = 1″
B-H = Half of armhole measurement Divided by 2
C-L= Waist round Divided by 4 + 2″
Length of the bodice – 14″
The neckline can be altered to the way you want it. Make it more modest by raising it up or make it daring by cutting it close to the chest line (Line along the armhole). Give a nice sweetheart shape to the neckline to make it more attractive or stick to the round neckline.
Open up the pattern and cut your front bodice from your fabric.
Fabric for the bodice of the Anarkali: Chiffon, soft silk, crepe, Embroidered net fabric and even velvet can be used to make the Anarkali.
I am using a black brocade fabric for the bodice and a polyester blend fabric for the skirt. I do not much like the drape of the fabric, but what else should I have expected!.
Actually, brocade fabrics need lining for it to be stable. Otherwise it will get damaged in the wash. If you are using lining for the bodice, use it as underlining, that is, keep the outer fabric and lining together and treat them together as one. Or use it to finish the neckline and turn to the inside.
Pattern drafting for the back bodice of Anarkali suit
A-B = C-D = Bust round Divided by 4 + 2″
K-H = Bust round Divided by 4 + 2″
A-F = Half of shoulder point to shoulder point
E-F = 2″
F-G = 1″
B-H = Half of armhole measurement Divided by 2
C-L= Waist round Divided by 4 + 2″
Length of the bodice = 14″
Skirt panels for the Anarkali suit
The skirt of the Anarkali suit consists of various panels.
Panel width at the top (A-B) = Waist circumference (Measure where you want the skirt to start) + 8 ; this divided by 20. I got this as 3. So the A-B is 3 inches.
Panel width at the bottom (C-D) = 6 inches to 8 inches.
The length of each panel – This depends on the length you want and your height. If you want an ankle length suit, make the panel 40 to 41 inches long. For floor length you may want to add more inches. Measure on yourself, from where the 13 inch long bodice will end to the bottom edge of the suit you want.
You need to cut 20 such panels for the whole Anarkali suit . (If you want more flair, you can increase the measure from C-D in each panel to 8 inches or more or add more panels. If you want to add more panels you will have to change the formula given above. Substitute the number 20 in the formula with the number of panels you want to add)
Add neckline facings
Cut narrow facing in the same shape as the neckline in a thin lining material. Or Use lining as facing, if you are adding lining to the bodice.
Turn the facing to the back. Remember to clip the seam allowance, every 1/2 inch for smooth turning. Sew in place.
Join the front bodice to the back bodice
Keep the two bodices of the Anarkali suit together, rightsides to the inside. Pin the shoulder edges together. Sew the shoulder seams.
For seamless joining, sandwich the front bodice between the facing and the outer fabric of the back bodice. Sew the shoulder seam to get a neat look to the seam.
Sew the sleeves to the bodice
This is a pattern for a very small cap sleeve. You can make and use any other type of sleeve for the suit.
Cut out the 2 outer fabric sleeves and lining.
Cut them out of fabric and lining.
Keep one sleeve and corresponding lining, rightsides together. Sew along the hem edge.
Turn the lining to the back. Press in place
Sew the sleeves to the bodice
Finish the skirt
Sew each of the panels for the skirt to each other one by one. Sew the first 10 panels.
Then sew up the next 10 panels.
Remember to press the seam allowances open and also finish the edges too.
Sew the front skirt panel to the front bodice and back skirt panel to the back bodice.
Sew the side seams, and the hem.
Anarkali suit trivia : The outfit is said to be named after Anarkali, a legendary Indian courtesan in the Mughal court during the 16th century. The story goes like this – Anarkali and the Crown Prince Salim fell in love with each other, but Emperor Akbar, Salim’s father, disapproved of their relationship. The rest of it is tragic; Anarkali is punished for the ‘crime’, while the guy goes on to become Emperor Jehangir. Not fair!
Though Anarkali herself had a short life, the dress named after her has enjoyed a long life, with almost all Indian beauties wearing it at least once in their lifetime. Does the love story became eternal because of the dress, or does the dress become legendary because of the story? What do you think?
Related posts: Salwar pants pattern ; Salwar kameez pattern ; Kurta tunic top pattern
Awesome instructions.. I don’t see but love reading the how to
Thank you.