Metallic threads used in embroidery (12 different types)

What is Metallic embroidery thread ?

Metallic thread generally refers to the round, twisted specialty thread created by twisting and bonding a fine metallic foil around a strong core to create an exceptionally smooth, strong, and pliable thread. The resultant thread has the shine of a real metal – be it silver, gold, or bronze. They are mostly available in shades of soft silver, silver, black gold, bright gold, copper, and soft gold.  

Nowadays, Metallic thread looks like they are made of metal but is actually made of synthetic material. But earlier, Metallic thread used to consist of thin strips of metal (usually silver) wrapped around a silk or linen fiber; Now, it is made with a special type of plastic coated with a metallic finish.

They are usually used in combination with other embroidery threads – both in machine embroidery as well as hand embroidery. In cross stitch, needlepoint, blackwork, and other embroidery techniques, this thread is used as a highlight, giving the work opulence and grandeur.

In goldwork embroidery, metallic threads are used on their own fully, in all their glory – as a stitch for filling space as well as outline stitch.

From ancient times tapestries, garments, and furnishings were embroidered with golden thread. Metallic threads have been used by clergymen and royalty for centuries to denote their exalted status. The military uniforms were embellished with golden thread ( as they are even today). Even today, metallic thread brings a kind of dignity to the fabric they are used on and is extensively used.

Different types of Metallic threads for embroidery

1. Passing thread

Passing thread is a thin metallic thread that is widely used for sewing as well as couching. It is smooth, flexible, firm, and durable.

There are two types of passing thread – Smooth passing thread, which is very thin flat, and slightly stiff; this is a thin metal wrapped around a thread core in a spiral manner. You can sew with it as well as couch it.

The other type of passing thread has a slight crimp on it, because of which this thread will have some difficulty going through fabric. This thread is also known as glace ( wavy passing thread).

2. Braids 

You get two types of metallic braids – hollow and flat. Fine braids are used for cross stitching, needle point, and machine embroidery. Tapestry braids and canvas braids are heavier and are used for couching.

3. Cord /twist (Torsade in French)

A cord is a specialty metallic thread of various threads twisted together. A twist is a twisted cord. This is mostly used in gold work and for couching. You can get twists/ cords in varying thicknesses and in different colors. You can separate the strands of twists and sew them separately as well.

There are many different kinds of metallic cords and twists in the market – two cords twisted together to become one bigger cord, braided cords, or flat wires wound around a heavier cord.A gimp cord is a cord made of three golden strands twisted together and is used for outlining stitches. Grecian twist is a beautiful twist made of twisting 4 strands of bright gold and dull gold together. Cannetille is a spirally twisted thread of gold or silver.

4. Japan thread

Jap is another name for this metallic thread, mostly used for couching. This is mainly used in oriental embroidery.

Earlier it used to be made of real gold. The gold was beaten into a very thin sheet, cut into small strips, and wound in a spiral manner around a silk core.

Today you get an alloy or a metalized polyester bonded to a paper base wound around a rayon or silk core thread. It does not tarnish at all and so is highly regarded and widely used in goldwork. This thread is wound on a square spool called Koma.

5. Crinkle

This is a metallic thread which is formed of metal wire wrapped around a cotton thread core with a crinkled appearance. It is usually used for couching.

6. Bullion / Purl

Purl is a metallic thread with a tube-like shape – the hollow coil-like shape makes it very soft and pliable. A Bullion is a larger variety of purl thread.

There are many types of bullion thread/purl thread according to their appearance:

• Check bullion has a faceted and shiny and sparkly surface; It is a flat thin wire wound around a triangular form
• Bright bullion is a round and smooth flat wire bullion which is very shiny and smooth( Smooth purl)
• Wire bullion / Rough purl is a metallic thread with a smooth and matt surface( not as shiny as other bullion). 

Purl is usually cut into small pieces and threaded and  used just like beads. Checkout the post on zardosi embroidery work ( also zardozi work) for details on how to use the bullion thread to make beautiful embroidery.

7. Pearl Purl metallic thread

Also called Jaceron purl, this is a stiff specialty thread that is a hollow spring-like coil -made by winding stiff wire around a thin tubular form.

This purl thread consists of tightly packed coils which make it look like gold pearls lined up together. It is stiff and firm than other purl threads, though at first glance, you would not know the difference.

8. Tambour thread

This is a very fine metal thread of .2mm diameter  (thread wrapped in metal). It is used in couching work to lay the couched thread. As it is real metal, it may tarnish.

9. Lurex thread

Lurex is a registered trade name for a synthetic metallic thread wrapped around a cotton core instead of a real metal thread. The advantage of lurex thread is that it will not tarnish with time. It is used instead of tambour thread to lay couching because of its ability to withstand the tarnishing of real metal threads.

10. Plate

Plate is a narrow flat band/strip of metal – it is available in many metallic shades of gold and silver.

There are two types of plates – a plain flat, broad plate – which is usually shiny, and a broad plate with a wire wrapped around it called a whipped plate.

Plate is usually laid flat against the surface of the fabric and couched. It can also be taken through the fabric with the help of a special flat hand embroidery needle.

They were made of real metals earlier but now they are metallic coloured laminated films.

Mukeish work is an Indian Embroidery technique done with plates.

11.Gota patti

Gota patti refers to metal pieces cut from metallic ribbon and appliqued on to fabric with fine thread. This is an Indian embroidery technique and it is embroidered in elaborate patterns all over the fabric. This exquisite embroidery is a regular work done on bridal trousseaus in India.

Read more about Gota patti embroidery here.

12. Wire

Milliary wire usually consists of two wires with one wire coiled around another. They are used for outlining , for couching and for beading works. Roccoco is a type of metallic thread which consists of fine wire tightly wrapped around a cotton core.