Pointed, banded collar, patch pocket on the left chest, back yoke, and button up fully opening reversed self placket – this is our idea of a dress shirt. And that about says it, but that is not all there is to a shirt.
Here is a breakdown of the different parts of a shirt that makes it what it is.
Different important Parts of a Shirt
Collar
This is one of the distinguishing features of a shirt, and, as it frames the face, has a very important role to play when you decide on a particular shirt that suits you. Most of the shirts you find in retail stores have a pointed collar.
The other main option is the cutaway (spread ) collar.
Button-down collar is very popular though they are slightly informal (read casual).
Other favourite options include band-collar, Italian collar. You can learn about the popular 15 types of shirt collars here. ; How to sew a shirt collar
When you buy shirts you must have noticed the plastic, shaped stays on collars. They have a function – the collar is kept straight and firm by these collar stays. The collar stays are 2- to 3-inch pointed splints inserted into slots on the underside of the collar after ironing. They are removed for washing.
There are some shirts with permanent stays on the collar, though that is very very rare.
Self-fabric refers to using the same fabric throughout the shirt for elements like the collar or placket.
You cannot imagine a shirt without the classic left patch pocket. It is usually square in shape though rounded pockets are also seen.
But in some very formal shirts, you will find no pockets. Those will be worn inside jackets/suits.
In some shirts, just the opening (welt opening) will be seen and the outline stitching of the pocket – the pocket will be on the back of the fabric.
Pocket on the right chest, as well as the left chest, is usually seen in more casual shirts (Double pockets) – like the western shirts.
Check out this post on various pockets and their names
Sleeve
Another important part to know is the types of sleeves on shirts, which can vary from style to style. A shirt can be Full sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, Short sleeve, or even Sleeveless
Cuffs
The cuff is the part of the shirt that wraps around your wrist. Barrel cuffs are the most commonly seen cuffs in men’s button-down shirts. They usually have a single button fastening them, though two or three are also seen.
Sleeve Placket
The sleeve placket helps to give ease in opening and closing of the sleeve cuff.
Read more about sleeve cuffs here.
Shirt length
Shirt length can vary a great deal.
The casual shirt is shorter than a formal shirt because it has to be worn outside the pants. Short length refers to when on an average Front and Back of the shirt is 3-6 cm down hipline. This looks better untucked.
Medium length for a shirt refers to the front of the shirt 5-8cm down hipline and the back 7-10cm down hipline. This length can be tucked into the waist of the pants.
Long length for a shirt refers to the front of the shirt 8-13cm down hipline and the back 10-15 cm down hipline.
Button Placket
The placket is the double layer of fabric that holds the buttons and buttonholes. The vertically full opening placket in mens shirt is a strip of fabric folded off the edge of the left and right front panels.
The left panel has the button holes on it and the right one has the buttons.
A French placket has the edge of the shirt-front folded over, creased, and held together only by the button holes.
Buttons
Other than the buttons down the button placket and one on the collar stand, the shirt may have buttons to fasten the collar points (button-down collar).
The difference in the way buttons are placed on a man’s and woman’s shirts can be seen in the picture below.
Some Hidden buttons are found inside the shirt which serves as replacement when the original buttons are lost.
Back yoke
This is an extra piece of fabric on the top of the back panel of the shirt covering the shoulder-blades.
Pleats on the back panel of the shirt
Some shirts feature a pleat in the back for added comfort and mobility. This is optional, as some shirts have no pleats at all. But usually, there will be pleats under the yoke on ready-to-wear shirts- this is given so that the shirt hangs comfortably on the body.
The two common types of pleats are the single center box pleat and the two side pleats on either side of the center. Sometimes they are combined. The center box pleat is the most commonly seen type of pleats on men’s shirts.The box pleat is usually 1 1/2 inch wide.
Tail & Hem
The Straight tail or shaped tail or straight tail with slits are the usual shapes of the bottom part of shirts on the back. The back is curved slightly for a casual look on informal shirts.
Sweep
This term refers to the width across the bottom of the shirt.
Monograms or Embroidery
Monograms are usually embroidered on the edge of the breast pocket. The initials of the name is embroidered as a way of customization and personalization. It is usually done in the same colour as the shirt for a subtle effect.
Seam used
The seam is an essential part of shirt construction, connecting different pieces of fabric. Usually, the flat-felled seam is seen on the inside of a good-quality shirt. A felled seam is a type of seam that is flat and adds strength to the shirt.
On less expensive shirts, you will find just a serged finish to a straight-stitched seam.
Some other features of the shirt which are not common
Under Arm gusset
This is given on the joint of the sleeve and the bodice at the armscye so that there is no tightness there.
Torso darts
Unlike a blouse, a standard shirt often lacks darts for shaping. However, slimline silhouettes are now preferred, so these waistline darts are often added to the front or back of the shirt to create a slimmer silhouette. Tapered darts can make you look leaner, and they are something you can add to your shirts to make them more fitted.
Check out this post on making a shirt smaller in size
Forearm darts
These darts are custom fitted depending on the difference in the forearm size of the person for whom the shirt is being made.
Related Posts : 20 Different varieties of shirts ; Choosing the fabric for shirts.; How to turn a shirt into a skirt ; Turn a shirt into a top ; Ideas to Upcycle shirts
THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING LIKE THIS BEST INFORMATION.
i really a appreciate this helpful information,however measuring and preparing a shirt collar seems tasky to me.