Spandex is a manufactured synthetic elastic fiber made of at least 85% of polymer polyurethane. It is derived from crude oil.
The fabric made with these elastic fibers is very very stretchy – it can be stretched to 4 to 7 times its original length. The threads are lighter, durable and more supple than any other elastic thread and hence widely used to make stretchy fabrics for form-fitting garments.
Spandex. Lycra. Elastane. How do they differ?
People talk of Lycra and Spandex as if they are different things.
Elastane and Spandex are synonyms (terms used for the same fibers in different parts of the world) and Lycra is a tradename for a type of spandex fabric.
LYCRA® is a trademarked brand of elastane or spandex belonging to the company Invista (formerly DuPont). There are other brands of elastane similar to lycra from other companies like Linel, ESPA, Roica, Creora. But the Lycra brand name is so popular that it is used in place for spandex/elastane, by many end consumers; Sort of like we ask for a xerox instead of a photocopy.
DuPont scientist Joseph C. Shivers invented DuPont’s spandex fiber in 1959 and this spandex fiber was given the trade name Lycra.
Elastane is the European name for the stretch fiber. A very popular brand name in Europe is Dorlastan® (similar to lycra)
Spandex fiber is usually blended with other natural and man-made fibers like cotton, linen, silk and wool when making garments. Take out a fitting dress from your cupboard and read its clothing label – most probably it will list spandex as a component.
Characteristic features of Spandex
| Property | Features of Spandex / Lycra |
|---|---|
| Fiber Source | Synthetic elastomeric fiber made from polyurethane. |
| Stretchability | Exceptional elasticity and stretch recovery. |
| Feel | Smooth and soft texture. |
| Drape | Excellent drape, molds to the body’s contours. |
| Looks | Varies from matte to shiny, depending on finish. |
| Breathability | Breathable enough and moisture-wicking, ideal for activewear. But it can be uncomfortable to wear in hot weather. |
| Wrinkle Resistance | Resistant to wrinkles, retains its shape. |
| Moisture Wicking | Excellent moisture-wicking properties. |
| Durability | Highly durable, resistant to abrasion and wear. |
| Heat Resistance | Sensitive to high heat, can melt or deform. |
| Care | Easy care, can be machine-washed and dried. |
| Environmental Impact | Spandex is made from petroleum, which is a non-renewable resource. The extraction and processing of petroleum releases greenhouse gases into the atmosphere, contributing to climate change. And it is nonbiodegradable. |
| Cost | Moderately priced, depends on the blend and quality. |
How much does spandex stretch?
The fiber of this fabric can be stretched up to 4-7 times its initial length before springing back to the original position once the tension is released. That is called elastic recovery.
Sounds like the best of all stretchy fabrics, right?
And this excellent stretch and recovery quality add all the other advantages that spandex has- like a very good range of motion, close shape fit, shape retention, flexibility and freedom of movement.
Other advantages are that it has a smooth hand, it is durable with good tensile strength, lightweight, wrinkle resistant, wicks moisture and very easy to maintain.
It is somewhat breathable and has no static or pilling problem.
When the fabric is used to make athletic wear it can make the wearer feel less muscle fatigue and cause less muscle strain.
It is also not damaged by body oils, perspiration, lotions, or detergents.
Spandex blends
The above mentioned characteristics will vary depending on the amount of spandex fiber in the clothing. Because, most of the garments you see are made with a blend of spandex fibers with other fibers like cotton, polyester, rayon, silk and nylon.
As, on its own, the spandex fiber can stretch a lot (like 400-600% its original length), when blended with other fibers the stretchability is enough for most of the purposes.
Spandex uses
The spandex fabric is used to make women’s and men’s underwear, innerwear, outerwear, and active wear. It is used to make leggings, yoga pants, swimwear, sports bras, and dancewear. They make figure fitting clothes – wet suits, ski wear, athletic wear, lingerie. Spandex is a particularly popular choice for all kinds of swimwear.
It is often used in compression garments, such as sports bras and compression shorts.
Different types of spandex fabrics
Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric
This is a blend of cotton and spandex – great fabric for making clothes as it gives all the comfort of cotton as well as the stretch of spandex. This fabric is used to make a lot of garments like skirts, shirts, jackets pants etc
RPL (Rayon/Poly/Lycra)
These fabrics are a staple fabric for the sewing room; they are incredibly versatile! They are easy-care, come in beautiful weaves, have fabulous drape….could they be more perfect? The stretch factor from the lycra is a true bonus, as well. Rayon Spandex is also called Modal.
Denim lycra
This is denim mixed with lycra – the kind used to make skin tight jeans
Rayon Spandex jersey ( Modal)
This very high stretch (4-way) knit fabric, which is lightweight, soft, and very drapey, is very good for making garments of all kinds. A very stretchy spandex rayon jersey is used to make athletic/exercise wear.
How to sew Spandex fabric
Before using the spandex fabric to sew, prewash it like you would any fabric – in cold water and then line dry. As you sew one thing to remember is that high heat can damage spandex fibers – so when pressing etc use caution.
As most of the spandex fabrics are blended, you will have to follow the weave of the fabric when you select the needle and thread. Depending on the weight of the fabric, change the needle to a heavier one (90/14) or a lighter one. If the fabric is a cotton spandex blend sew it like you would a woven fabric; if it is a thicker fabric like denim lycra, use a heavy needle meant for denim sewing.
Use polyester or cotton/polyester thread to sew these fabrics.
Though it is a stretchy fabric, most fabrics will have only 10%, etc. of spandex, so you can sew regular seams – no need for zigzag stitching, but if it is very stretchy, use a close and small zigzag stitch to sew the seams – this will ensure that seam stitching does not break afterward.
But as you sew, stretch the fabric – this eliminates the puckering and breaking of stitches.
Inconveniences of spandex
Not everything is hunky dory with Spandex. Spandex manufacturing companies have to adhere to strict quality control stipulations so that the carcinogenic properties of the product is controlled when made into garments. But even then, spandex allergies are not unheard of.
Rashes, itchiness etc seem to be the most talked about consequences of spandex, especially by those with sensitive skin.
But luckily, most of the garments you wear made with spandex are never made exclusively with spandex fibers. Spandex is almost always blended with other fibers before being made into garments. And the cloth will take on the qualities of those fibers.
Sometimes they come mixed with rubber/latex as it is cheaper, which is horrible. Latex is not as durable and latex allergies are more prevalent. A layman may not know the difference. Latex is heavy which is one way to know but difficult for common people to gauge.
One easy way is to buy good brands. Never buy cheap- that is a sure way to get an inferior quality product.
Related posts : Sewing tips for spandex fabrics ; How to wash spandex clothes; Fabric names – textile dictionary
Reference: Invista, the developers of LYCRA®: www.invista.com; More info on spandex here.
