The definition of fabric tells us that it is a material made from yarn, a continuous strand of textile fibers or filaments (natural and synthetic). A fabric can be made up from a fibre type (cotton, linen, wool, silk, polyester, nylon etc) as well as a weave type (plain, twill, satin etc). It is made by various methods like weaving, knitting, knotting, chemically using gluing, bonding, or melting together and mechanically tangling the fibers together, via a process called felting.
“You want cotton, silk, wool, or rayon?” Usually, a person going to the shop to buy fabric gets asked this pretty general question. It is a very, very important question but too bland, too non-creative and very unhelpful. There are so many different types of each of these types of fabrics that the question leads you nowhere.
Under the label of cotton itself there are so many types of cotton fabrics – I counted more than 100. There are so many silk fabric varieties, wool fabric varieties. Here are the various articles on this site to get a comprehensive understanding of the characteristics and properties of different fabrics and how they work optimally in the making of your projects.
| Fabrics/ properties | Cotton | Wool | Silk | Polyester | Rayon | Linen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fiber | Natural cellulose | Natural protein | Natural protein | Synthetic | Semi-synthetic | Natural cellulose |
| Yarn | Staple | Staple or Filament | Filament | Filament or Staple | Filament or Staple | Staple |
| Ply | Single or Ply | Ply usually | Single usually | Single or Ply | Single or Ply | Single or Ply |
| Construction | Woven, Knitted | Woven or knitted | Woven | Woven, Knitted | Woven, Knitted | Woven |
| Weave | Plain, Twill, Sateen | Plain, Twill, Herringbone | Plain, Satin, Twill | Plain, Twill, Knit | Plain, Twill, Satin | Plain, Twill |
Popular fabrics used for sewing
Cotton
This natural woven fabric is super comfortable and one of the best fabric to make clothes with. It is a breathable fabric and can make you feel cool even when the temperature is hot. This makes it a staple summer fabric. To top it all it is durable and easy to maintain.
The best thing about sewing with cotton is that it is easy. Compared to any other fabric, you can easily sew with it. Another advantage of getting cotton to sew your clothes is that it is inexpensive.
When you buy cotton for dressmaking ensure that you have the best by running your hands across the surface. If the surface feels smooth you can be assured that you have the best cotton. Inferior cotton will not feel smooth. Sometimes cotton will be too starched. When you rub it, the starch will fly as powder. It is better not to buy this.
Some cotton fabric will be loosely woven, so you need to see the cloth to know the quality of the cloth.
Another problem with cotton is that it will shrink in the wash. So prewashing is not an option; it is a necessity. If you plan to avoid prewashing, consider choosing the next size in the pattern when making dresses.
Cotton voile & cotton lawn are the best fabrics for making baby clothes and nightwear. Nowadays, many are going for organic cotton because of the way cotton is made.
Printed medium-weight cotton is the most popular for making dresses. You will also have to buy lining for these kinds of cotton because most are thin.
One disadvantage of cotton fabric is that it wrinkles easily, unless specific finishes are added to it.
There are about 100 different types of cotton fabric, as you can see from this post on the Name of the cotton fabric.
Related post : How to sew cotton; Organdy
Silk fabric
Silk is a beautiful fabric with a luxurious feel to it. It is smooth and has a luster which is very attractive. Silk is great for dressmaking
Related post : Comparing rayon with silk. There are many types of silk available.
Checkout this post on Silk materials for clothes
It is a little difficult to maintain silk as most are marked as dryclean only. It can be slightly difficult to sew with as well.
So many different types of silk, it is mind-boggling – khadi silk, cotton silk, Tusser silk, crepe silk, polyester silk, silk dupioni.
When buying silk, you may find silk with a very high thread count – they are very durable and are the best and the softest. The problem with low thread count silks is that they are more delicate, and they pull apart at the seams. You will have to keep silk fabric away from heat and moisture.
The most popular silk fabrics for dressmaking are medium-weight (blouse-weight) silk, silk dupioni, and silk charmeuse. It is always best to buy silk that can be washed at home.
Related post: How to buy Silk : 10 important questions to ask so that you are not duped.
Linen fabric
Linen looks like a richer cousin of the cotton fabric – at least all the good qualities of cotton are present in linen plus the added elegance – cool, crisp and durable.
But remember that linen wrinkles a lot. It also doesn’t drape on the body like some of the other fabrics do. It is a somewhat stiff crispy fabric .
Ensure that the linen you are buying is not too crisp that it scratches the skin. Good quality linen will be soft. Choose the best quality linen, and you cannot go wrong. The dress you make with it will be neat and classy.
Have you seen those fine shirts made in linen – they do not have those raised bumps visible in the fabric I get for dressmaking at the store I shop. But the fact that those slubs are there ( as they are called ) does not make the linen bad quality. They are a part of the construction of the fabric.
You can buy linen when you want to make pants, formal blouses, and shirts, vests. Linen with lycra combines the desirable qualities of both fibers.
To remove the wrinkles in linen, dampen it and iron.
If you find that the price of linen is too good to be true, it probably is. Linen can come blended with other fibers like cotton and they are cheaper.
Check out linen fabric types for more details on the fabric.
Satin
Satin, with its luxurious feel, is usually the fabric of choice when making occasion wear. Kids’ dresses and wedding wear in satin are the most common sight.
You get different weights of satin fabric. A thicker-weight satin can be used to make structured garments.
It is a little difficult to sew with satin. The seams mostly look wonky, the machine tends to eat the fabric, and the needle puckers the surface. But the beauty of the fabric conquers all these problems. Right Interfacing at the right places can help a lot..
Checkout this post on sewing with Satin.
Polyester fabric
Polyester has its own disadvantages, but if you buy high-quality Polyester this fabric will give you many qualities that only synthetic fabrics possess. – great drape, ease of maintenance, adequate stretch and low cost. It is also somewhat resistant to mildew and moth, the bane of other clothes.
Actually, what endears me about this fabric is the way it is so easy to wash and care for Polyester. If you want to make pleats with it, the fabric will retain those pleats if you iron them with adequate heat – Polyester makes really sharp pleats. But normally, it does not easily wrinkle.
Low-quality Polyester develops cut threads on the surface after a few washes, and they look horrible, believe me.
Checkout this post on Polyester for more details.
Knit fabrics
Knit is a construction – and the fabrics made with this method has a great deal of stretch. There are people who only sew with knit. They adore knit for its stretch and comfortable fit and drape.
But you have to be careful whether it will remain soft against the body.
When buying knit what you look for is the gauge of the fabric – this is determined by counting stitches across vertical rows (wales). The higher the gauge, the finer the fabric. The lower the gauge, the coarser the fabric.
The cotton knit fabric blends the quality of comfortableness of cotton with the stretch of knit. Interlock knit is a favourite dressmaking knit fabric. It is reversible as it looks same on both sides. Jersey is an even better fabric as it is more lightweight and fuller than Interlock knit. Ponte Roma knit is another lovely knit fabric though it does not stretch as much as Interlock or Jersey. Ribbed knit is good for making cuffs, waistbands and necks.
Knit patterns are sewn differently from other fabrics which do not stretch as much. It is a difficult fabric to sew and requires a special needle (ball point needle) to sew with your sewing machine
Main dressmaking knits are Cotton / Modal Knits
3×3 Rib Knit
Doubleknit
Doubleknit Rayon Blend
Eyelash Knit
Jersey
Matte Jersey
Mesh Knits & Power Mesh
Mesh Knits (triple mesh)
Rayon / Lycra Jersey
sweater knits
Silk Jersey
Silk Mesh Knits
Know more about the different knitted fabric types here.
Wool fabrics
There are two types of wool – the finer, softer wool used to make garments and then the coarse one used to make blankets and rugs. When buying wool for sewing, Look out for soft fine wool fabric, but you will probably have to pay through your nose. The softness of the finest wool is worth the prize.
The fabric is usually bought for its warmth-giving properties, and you may need a thicker fabric for the purpose you have in mind.
Dry cleaning is preferred for wool fabric; Check out the post on 30 different types of wool fabric; Properties of wool for more details.
Rayon
Rayon is a favorite for dressmaking because it is super light and very flowy; the wonderful way it drapes on the body is the reason why many of the clothes you see on stores are made in this fabric.
It is not the easiest fabric to sew with but the way it looks on you will compensate for the pain. It is a great fabric to make Dresses, blouses, soft jackets, skirts, draped garments, soft pants, shorts, and pajamas.
Rayon challis is the most popular choice when buying rayon- it is smooth and drapes excellently. You can sew beautiful dresses with this fabric. Look out for modal rayon, which is very smooth, and Tencel, which is also very soft and the best quality of all – no wrinkling. Normal Rayon fabric wrinkles a lot. Viscose Javanaise is another great rayon fabric for dressmaking..
But it is difficult to maintain rayon and does not last long. It also shrinks.
Checkout the post on Rayon for more details.
Blends
When fabric fibers are blended it results in a fabric which is far more superior than the original ( like plant budding). Blends carry forward most of the advantages of their parents and some more.
Most of the Blended fabrics are favourites in dress making; Like the Bizzy Lizzy cloth which is a blend of cotton and polyester ( 50-50 I suppose) – it has all the good qualities of cotton and polyester and very affordable.
Good quality Polycotton is a favourite of mine to make casual pants ; polyester blends make good lounge pants ; linen and cotton blends are the best for making dresses; Lycra blends are the best for making leggings because of the soft stretch it has along with the qualities of the natural fabric fibers it also has. They are figure flattering and at the same time, comfortable. Look out for a fabric with about 5% stretch synthetic material blends, and you will be comfortable.
Viscose and Polyester are also blended with natural fabrics to improve their care properties.
Another favorite blend is a 70-30 blend of Polyester and cotton – 2 by 2 ; 2 by 1. This is the material of choice for sari blouses.
Lace
Lace has an ethereal, completely feminine look to it which makes it the ideal fabric for women’s garments. Most of the lace needs lining as the open weave of the fabric makes it sheer, but with the right lining, it can be sewn to make beautiful dresses.
Check out the different types of lace fabric you can choose in this post and the 30+ ways you can incorporate lace in sewing
Velvet, chiffon, and leather are other beautiful fabrics you can make great garments with. Then there are special fabrics like beaded, sequined fabric, metallic fabric ; even fabric with a rubberized feel to it.
Poplin is one good fabric to buy, but I have difficulty getting hold of a great quality poplin that does not pill after a few washes, which is why this fabric is not on the list. But most of the readymade shirts are made in high-quality poplin. I buy poplin mostly as a lining fabric rather than the main fabric for dressmaking.
You cannot categorically classify fabrics as ‘suitable’ or ‘non suitable’ for sewing and for dress-making. Each fabric has its own qualities. Knowing some of the properties and the advantages of choosing them sure helps in making the process of sewing a lot easier.
Acrylic, Spandex, and Ramie are other favorites for dressmaking. Ramie looks a lot like linen. This fabric is blended with Polyester, cotton, linen, and acrylic. Acrylic and Acetate are very common fabrics you will find in ready-to-wear clothes. Acrylic is very prone to pilling, so you will find that you have come to dislike it after some wear and a wash. Acetate is usually a dry-clean only fabric (to maintain its looks), though it is inexpensive.
The right type of fabric can make a lot of difference in the way the final garment looks, so take your time selecting the best fabric you can afford..
Where to buy fabric
You can buy fabrics from Local fabric retail shops, craft and sewing stores, Onine fabric shops, Whole sale fabric suppliers, Fabric trade shows, and specialized Social media sellers
More reading on this topic: Fabric Sewing Guide – Claire Shaeffer
Related posts – Material for bag making; The Best dressmaking tips in a nutshell
A comparison chart of the properties of these dressmaking fabrics
Fiber of the fabric
Fiber is the building block of your fabric. Fabric is made of yarn which is made from different kinds of fibers. Some yarn is made of a single particular fiber (eg. 100% cotton) but some are a blend (eg. Polycotton). And there are so many different types of fabrics that it will literally boggle your mind.
Read the full list of names of fabrics here.
Learn more about the different types of textile fibers here. You can read more details on how the fibers are made into fabric here.
If you are unsure about what fiber your fabric is made up of, you can do some fabric testing as mentioned here
Related posts : Natural fabrics; Animal fabrics ; Eco friendly fabrics
Yarn of the fabric
A fabric is fine or coarse depending on the type, thickness and density of its yarns. The yarn may be classified as spun yarns (made from short, staple fibers) or filament yarns (made from continuous filament fibers). Very fine cotton fabric is made of spun cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers.
Reference: Read more on 28 different types of yarn
Cotton yarn weight is measured by the term ‘yarn number’ or yarn count. This is the number of hanks of yarn needed to make up one pound of yarn. Higher the yarn number thinner the yarn, and consequently thinner and finer the fabric.
Yarn is measured by the term denier, which indicates weight, in grams, of a 9000-meter length of yarn. Lower the denier finer the yarn. You can learn more about What is Denier here.
The twist of the yarns used in the fabric can change the feel of the fabric and its appearance. Well twisted yarns are stronger and will wear better than uneven, loosely twisted yarns. Twist can increase fineness, strength and the elasticity of the yarn. Most of the yarns used in the woven fabric have an average twist but some fabrics like crepe are made with yarns with high twist. But a filament yarn without much twist can make the fabric appear smoother.
The direction of the Twist in the yarn (clockwise S twist or counterclockwise Z twist) can affect how light bounces off the fabric.
Ply of the fabric
The ply of a fabric refers to the way the yarn that makes the fabric is twisted/used. Each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply.
Single-ply and 2 ply are the most commonly used terms indicating the twist of the yarn used in making the fabric.
Single-ply means the fiber is twisted to make a single yarn and that is used to make the fabric.
2 Ply means two yarns are spun into a single one and then that is used to make the fabric.
Knowing the ply is important as it can affect the thickness and strength of the yarn and in turn the strength, appearance and absorbability of the fabric.
Fabric construction method
According to the way fabrics are made, you can mainly classify fabrics as woven, knits and non woven.
Knitted Fabrics are made by interlocking continuous thread into rows of loops by hand or specialized machines. They have a nice elasticity to them which makes these fabrics suitable for making comfortable and form fitting clothes. Learn about the different types of knit fabrics here.
Woven fabrics are made by interweaving yarn with weft yarn doing over and under the warp yarn. Handweaving is not as prevalent as machine weaving today. The other category nonwoven fabrics are made by applying heat, moisture, and pressure to fibers. All have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Related post : Handwoven fabrics
Fabric weave
Knowing about the type of fabric weave is important in knowing the drape and feel of the fabric and the appearance of the fabric. Finely woven fabric will have a nice drape and a smooth feel. You can learn more about the different kinds of fabric weaves here.
A fabric that will ravel at the cut edges needs extra care when sewing. If you have a tightly woven fabric it may not ravel at the edges. Knits never ravel at the edges but thin knits tend to roll which is unattractive. An excessive raveling tendency is not a good sign.
Fabric weight
A fabric can be lightweight, medium weight, heavyweight or anything in between. Lightweight fabrics usually have a loose weave. Heavyweight fabrics usually have a tight weave.
Fabric weight is also dependent on the yarn used.
You cannot gauge a fabric’s quality by looking at its weight – it is more indicative of what you can use the fabric for. For eg. a thin cotton fabric is better suited for warm climates. That does not mean it is inferior. Thick cotton is better suited for making a bag etc.
GSM (Grams per square meter) is the term that you use for fabric weights. You can speculate on the fabric’s thickness from its gsm. A medium quality (thickness) Cotton fabric would have about 150 gsm, the standard one is around 180 gsm, a higher quality would be around 200 gsm. Read more about GSM of fabric here.
Related post : Denier of fabric.
Thread count of the fabric
Thread count of a fabric is the number of yarns in an inch of fabric. Higher the thread count better the quality of the fabric – this is the general idea. Loosely woven fabrics are not perceived as high quality fabrics as the yarns in it may pull apart at the seams and the durability of the fabric is also low.
Thread count is a very misunderstood term in terms of quality of fabric. You may see high thread count in the label and get inferior fabric. You can learn more about thread count here.
Types of dyeing & printing done on the fabric
Fabric can be dyed with Chemical dyes or Natural Dyes. Natural dyeing is done using dyes sourced from plants and other natural sources like barks, leaves, roots, seeds and soil. They are used to dye silk and cotton, with only alum as a mordant. The side effects of chemicals in the dye process are avoided by using natural dyes.
Designs and motifs on the fabric may be as a result of weaving with colored thread or as a result of printing done after the fabric is made. Yarn made designs are qualitatively better than printed ones.
You can have a look at this post on List of fabric print names to put a name on quite a few. And also if you are further curious the different ways the patterns are repeated and positioned on fabric.
Related posts : Different types of fabric prining ; Fabric dye types; How to dye fabric; Natural dyeing of fabric.
