When it is summer at our place, the heat gets to you so much that it makes you burn inside-out, and you forget all your good intentions of eco-friendly living and the family budget and put on the A/C at full blast all day and night.
On the clothing side, I usually make some simple night dresses in this pattern for the times when I am out of the purview of the A/C. I even go a little bolder sometimes and make a loose loungewear with simple straps. Here is the pattern and sewing tutorial.
Related post : Best fabric to wear in summer.
Sewing tutorial for the loungewear dress
Step 1. Cut out the Bodice pieces
If you are an absolute beginner in sewing check out this post on measuring yourself. Measure your bust round – that is all you need for this top.
Take two fabric pieces – 40 inches long and atleast 36 inches wide.
Fold them by the middle and mark as in the picture below.
(If you only have a fabric which is 36 inches wide, you can take H-F as 18 inches- which is the maximum width you can get. The width of the fabric you have decides the flare you get)
A-B is the folded side.
(2 1/2 extra given is for the pleat in the middle)
H-F is taken as double of J-E. But if you have a narrow width fabric you may not get enough for this. In this case take the full width of your fabric. Eg. if you have 36 inch wide fabric take H-F as 18″.
Step 2. Cut out and make the strap pieces
Cut straps 11 1/2 inch long and 2 1/2 -3 inch wide (depending on the width of strap you want).
Cut this fabric on the bias. 2 1/2 inch wide fabric will make you a 1 inch wide strap, which is good enough.
Fold by the middle and then fold the two edges to the inside.Press and then stitch in place for your strap.
If you think this is a too wide strap and you want thinner, check out this post on making thin fabric tubes. Or you can make these straps like in this post on making bag handles.
Make the central pleat
Find the middle of the bodice top edge. Fold the bodice by this middle, right sides to the inside. If you have a printed fabric, ensure that it is aligned symmetrically.Â
From the middle fold mark the extra you have added for the pleat. I have added 2.5″ So I sew this 2.5 inches, 8 inches from the top edge- the red line in the picture below.
Now fold this extra fabric into an inverted pleat, at the back.Â
Stitch this pleat in place.(Below pic is how the back of your fabric looks after you have sewn the inverted pleat)
It will look like this from the front – The extra fabric is stitched as a pleat and forms room enough at the bottom part of the dress.
It will look like this, when everything is done.
Bind the armhole
Cut out bias fabric pieces to bind the armhole. Do so for all 4 armholes.
If you do not know how to bind fabric edges with bias tape – follow these tutorials – How to bind edge with bias tape, How to bind neckline with bias tape.
Step 3. Join the strap to the front bodice
Cut out 2, 1 1/2 inch wide fabric pieces for facing the top edges of the two bodices – for length of these pieces measure the top edge.
Keep the strap pieces inside the binding piece and the bodice piece. Stitch the top edge.
Cut out the side in shape for the armline – the red line in the picture below. Remember to leave atleast 1/4 inch at the sides to fold to the inside.
Turn the binding to the back and hand sew in place.
Step 4. Join the strap to the back bodice
Keep the other side of the straps to the back bodice.
Sandwich this with the other binding piece.(The back bodice is kept right side up. The front bodice is kept backside up on top). Stitch in place.Â
Turn to the back and Hand sew in place.
Step 5. Join the side seams and Hem the dress
Join the sides and sew the hem.
You have to make a narrow hem, because of the curve at the hem. Check out these posts on narrow hems – How to use a hemmer foot for a rolled hem, How to sew curved hems the right way.
Related posts : Sew easy Pajama Pants ; Sew nightwear set; DIY sewing patterns; Sewing for beginners.; Sew elastic waistband lounge pants
Hi, it took me a year to find this info. Thank you for your talent and time. one question, how did you get the measurement from point A to point C? I loved the post as soon as I get the answer will make this dress.
A-D is the same as J-E ; C-D – 3″ Hope this clears
Sarina, I love the idea of this dress and would love to make one but find the explanation and photos of the inverted pleat are not clear to me. Is it possible to make these clearer please?
Hi Roxy
Can you take a look at this post – inverted pleats
I went to check out the tutorial for making a nightie, and though I understand what you wrote, there is no picture of the whole garment, showing the goal we are seeking, what we are aiming to make/accomplish. I do make my own patterns at time for simple garments, but am very interested in what others are doing too and I thank you for taking the time to post as I know it takes away from time to sew. A picture of the finished garment would be appreciated, if you still have it.
Hi Patty
You have a fair point there but the said nightie has been worn so much it is not worth taking a picture now 🙂 I will make another one and put up a pic. Thanks for the suggestion
Just curious.., how do you size this? It doesn’t specify what sizes this will fit. Will it fit someone who wears XS and someone who wears 3X or more? If the size range is limited, where would adjustments be made.
You make it to fit yourself, using YOUR measurements! Each is custom made–so sizing it S-XL or whatever is NOT APPLICABLE.
You are right. Thanks, Peggy for the reply 🙂
I’m in my 80’s and used to make all my families clothes.. But for the life of me I cannot figure out your “sizing” chart. I understand right sides together, straps, but how to cut the armholes or scoop the neck is a total mystery. Sorry, I will figure it out because I am going to make a few, I live in Florida and they would be perfect daily dresses. Thank you and Blessings.
Carol, she does give the exact measurements for the size of the scoops from underarms in the diagram, but it could be adjusted for your own body if you are making a garment for someone very large or very small. I would suggest making a paper pattern based on your body size, according to that drawing, and hold up one side up to your body. Have on the bra you would tend to wear with this, or your most comfy one if you don’t plan on wearing one. Fold your paper where the pleat will be, then line up & pin the center front of the paper to your bra. Move up & down before pinning so it covers the bra without being way up inside your armpit. You can use the scoop of the underarm area of the bra as a guide as to making that part of the pattern. The dress should cover the underarm scoop of the bra and the top of the bra, even if it doesn’t hide the straps. If you need to add paper, tape some to the piece you started with.
I think I’ll make a couple for an upcoming beach trip. It mightfeel good for sitting on the deck and enjoying the breezes.
I have written out the instructions, and will go to the thrift store this morning to find a piece of fabric, possible a bed sheet, to try making the dress. Thank you.
Bed sheet: What a great idea!!!
Oh, I really like this dress, not sure I would only use it around the house, it looks comfy for outdoors/public places, too! But… what kind of material is used? Is this cotton fabric or a knit? Sorry, I’m a noob, and can’t tell one fabric from another by just looking at it. Thanks!
You can use printed cotton – it is easy to sew for a beginner. Do not forget to press as you sew. Checkout this post on dressmaking tips and also this post with sewing techniques. Best wishes
Very nice dear
i am interested on designing i need your assistance.
Thank you for this wonderful art of sewing you shared. Now i can make my own dress.
Beautiful
This is exactly the type of house dress I like want to make. I can wear it as is in summer or a blouse under in winter. Thanks so much!