Make a Lolita Skirt {Sewing tutorial}

My daughter loves a lot of her clothes to be girly, pink, ruffly with a somewhat retro vibe – there is a name for this exact fashion style – Lolita. She says it is for cute people. And she is true. Cuteness is the hallmark of this style. In Lolita fashion style, there is one piece of clothing that stands out – a bell shaped, pouffy, knee length skirt with ruffles and lace trims, preferably in pink color. Let us make it.

Lolita fashion is an alternative fashion subculture that originated in Japan. Read more about lolita style here.

Fabric and Color choices for the Lolita skirt

While pink is a popular color in Lolita fashion, especially in the sweet Lolita subculture, you can make your skirt in black, white or any other color for that matter. White cotton paired with white lace and gingham checks in blacks are very common. Fabrics with floral prints, polka dots, stripes, and themed prints (like fairy tales, fruits, animals) are usally used for making lolita clothing.

The colors you use will depend on the specific category of Lolita style you follow. For Gothic Lolita, a pink skirt would be out of place. Opt for black, adding accents of white, red, and purple. In Punk Lolita, the choices typically include red, black, and often plaid patterns. For a Classic Lolita look, you can choose from classic colors such as burgundy, navy, forest green, beige, and ivory.

How to sew the Lolita Skirt

Step 1: Cut out the Yoke waistband for the skirt

Fold fabric and mark as in the picture below:

A-C = 5″

A-B = 1/4 of the waist round + 1.5″

C-D = 1/4 of the hip round + 2″

Give a little curve to the center front of the waist yoke by cutting 1 inch down at the center fold. A-C = 1″ Curve as you cut the waistband top edge.

You have two such waistbands.

Join both these waistband pieces, rightsides together at the top edge.Clip the seam allowance.

Open it up

Cut out the back waistband.

Cut this also on fold. It is just a rectangular fabric piece. Cut it 10 inches long. Width of the waistband = 1/4 of the hip round + 2″

You also need elastic – cut out 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch elastic of length equalling 1/4 of the hip round.

The picture below is that of the back waistband folded by half (making it match the front waistband)

Step 2: Cut out the tiers for the skirt

You will be adding 3 tiers under the waistband. Add additional length if you want a longer skirt that 18 inches long. I have cut the first tier 4.5 inch in length; second tier is 6 inches long and the third tier is 7 inches long. Cut the strips in the length given here – first tier is 2 times hip round, second tier is 3 times hip round, thirf tier is 4 times hip round.

Cut all of them by half, so that you have total 6 pieces as tiers.

If you want more ruffles than it is there on my skirt add more cloth.

Finish the hem of the bottom tier piece. It is better to do it at first, before making the gathers.

Related posts : Names of waistbands on skirts ; Sew a different type of zippered waistband on skirts

Step 3: Gather the tiers

Make gathering stitches to make the frills on the tier fabrics. You can make a single stitch and gather but it would not look as good or gather as nice as it does when you make double rows of long stitches. Just my experience. (Though I have made a single stitch here 🙂 )

Pull the stitches to gather the top of the tiers to gather. All of the top edges should be gathered and adjusted enough to meet the bottom edge of the tier above it. ie. the gather the top edge of the bottom tier to match the length of the second tier. The first tier should be gathered to match the bottom edge of the skirt waistband. Set aside.

Step 4: Sew the skirt

Join the back and front pieces of the skirt.

Step 3: Make the waistband of the skirt – one side

Keep the elastic inside the back waistband piece right under the middle fold. Pin or baste stitch in place.

The back waistband with the elastic sandwiched inside.

Keep this inside the front waistband (opened rightside up); Align the side.

Bring the top edge of the front waistband over the back waistband.

Sew the edge together. Bring the seam allowance down as you stitch.

This is how it will look. Seamlessly joined.

Step 4: Joining Zipper side of the waistband

Bring the other end of the elastic to the other side of the waistband and correctly (without twisting) pin or stitch in place.

You need a small zipper of 7 inches now.

Place the zipper rigthside down on the other side (front side) of the waistband. (Not where you joined the elastic)

Bring the top edge of the waistband down, over the zipper. Refer picture below.

Sew along the edge. Use zipper foot for this, so that you can sew totally close to the zipper edge.

Bring it rightside out.

Step 7: Join the other side of zipper

The other side of the zipper has to be joined to the other side of the front waistband.

Open up the front waist band right side up.

Place the zipper top edge folded as in the picture on the front waistband edge – rightside down.

Bring the top edge of the waistband down over the zipper.

Using the zipper foot again, sew the edges together. Bring it rightside out.

Try closing the zipper – it should align properly so long as you had folded the top edge of the zipper down the same way (till the metal edge) for both sides.

Sew under the elastic on the back waistband – effectively making a casing for the elastic. Just sew under the elastic- that is it. Just bring the gather up as you sew so that you do not make unnecessery puckers on the waistband.

This is how the front of the waistband will look – the advantage of this waistband is that, it is flat – no gathers making your stomach look bigger.

Step 8: Join the Skirt to the waistband

I have to confess that a cotton skirt that is sewn this way would not be as pouffy as it is, on its own. There are tricks of the trade that gives clothes its volume – crinoline petticoat is one such trick.

Related posts: Sew a skirt with a yoke waistband ; Sew a frilly skirt for kids; Gypsy skirt tutorial