Sewing with Velvet (11 FAQ answered)

Velvet is a challenging material to work with, and may require a combination of techniques for successful sewing. Adjusting the pressure or tension settings on the sewing machine to better accommodate the velvet, using a heavier needle or specific types of thread that are suitable for velvet can help. The settings are given below.

The most important thing is to Sew along the velvet pile and not against the pile.

Settings	What to use for sewing with Velvet
Cutting	Because of the texture of velvet, you have to cut all pattern pieces in the same direction. For a rich color, cut with the pile facing upwards. For better wear, cut with the pile facing downwards. From the bolt, you can tear velvet selvage to selvage instead of cutting it (not stretch velvet).
Sewing machine needle	Use a No 10 Sewing machine needle if you have thin backing fabric on your velvet or a No 12 if thicker. Universal needle is prefered or use Microtex needles.
Sewing machine thread	Use polyester thread for better stretch; You can also use good quality cotton thread
Sewing machine accessories	Walking presser foot is a good addition to get all the layers feeding together. It will help feed the fabric evenly. A nonstick sewing foot or a Teflon foot is recommended for smoother movement.
Sewing machine Stitches	Standard straight stitches, 2.5 to 3 mm in length can be used for most velvet.
Pressing	Carefully press from the back of the velvet, using a towel and press cloth to prevent damage.
Seam stitching	Use lots of pins to keep the fabric stable. Or Use fabric glue or washable school glue to hold seams in place before stitching. If your machine can change foot pressure, try lowering it a bit

Velvet is a beautiful fabric with a luxurious soft piled surface. Velvet naturally drapes well, creating a flattering silhouette for a variety of garment styles. Clothes and accessories made with this fabric have an unparalleled elegance and class to them.

Have you noticed that at all points of fashion there is velvet – whether it is as accents, as a trim, as an accessory, as details like collars & cuffs, as elements in home decor, or as the whole garment, like jackets, gowns, capes or pants – velvet is all around us adding to the richness of life. Velvet, as a luxurious textile, demands specialized care when sewing and cutting to maintain its soft and shimmering appearance.

Related post: Fake fur sewing tips.

Related post : 12 Different types of Velvet fabric. ; Find other tutorials for different sewing techniques

Understanding the type of fiber used in your velvet, whether it’s silk or synthetic, can guide your sewing technique.

Problems in sewing velvet	Solutions
Slippery nature	Velvet fabric made of rayon or polyester fibers keep slipping as you sew and will make you lose faith in sewing. Before sewing, tack your velvet pieces together to prevent them from shifting. You can pin every 2-3” minimum. If you have time, Baste it by hand and then stitch. You can hand baste with water soluble thread for ease (if it is washable velvet) Using tissue paper between layers of velvet can help prevent the fabric from sticking and shifting during sewing. Place tissue paper on the seam between the layers of fabric. It stops the two naps working against each other. The paper just pulls away once you have finished sewing.
Curved, rippled edges	Hems can be finished with binding before hand or machine hemming. If you have a serger, use a serged edge and then hand or machine hem.
Torn seams in stretchy velvets	A narrow zig zag stitch works well to sew seams with stretchy velvets
Pile of the fabric	When adding a zipper to a velvet garment, ensure it’s sewn carefully to prevent catching the delicate pile

1.How to select patterns to sew in  Velvet?

The first thing about sewing with velvet is to be careful to select a pattern that does not have too many seams. Velvet is bulkier than other fabrics and seams add to the bulk. So fewer the seams better the garment will drape. Another problem is in pressing fabric. Seams require you to press. The same is the case with darts. Simple patterns with not many seam lines or manipulations work well.

It is also difficult to do fine embroidery work on velvet – even if you do you will have a hard time finding it in the pile of the fabric.

2.How to cut Velvet?

Preshrink cotton velvet like velveteen, before cutting and sewing. Otherwise, it will shrink in the wash.

Velvet has a unique weaving process, where additional threads are introduced to create its characteristic pile. This has to be taken into account when cutting it.

Mark velvet on the backside with chalk. Hand basting with a contrasting thread can work in place of chalk markings on the front of the fabric, as it is impossible to mark accurately on the face of the fabric because of the pile.

The most important thing to take care of when sewing velvet is to have very sharp scissors . Checkout this post on sharpening your scissors if you do not have a sharpened one.

Always cut velvet in a single layer. Usually, I am all for cutting patterns on the fold. This ensures that both sides are the same. But for some fabrics, this is not the best way. Velvet is one such fabric.

You should first make a paper pattern on the fold ( if you are drafting the dress pattern yourself). Open it up and lay it on the velvet fabric and mark the pattern. When you cut the pattern pieces, cut away the marking lines

One very important thing to take into consideration is the nap of the velvet fabric – the lush pile that you love can be a bane if cut in the wrong direction. 

3. Does velvet fray? How to deal with the cut edges?

An overlock stitch can prevent the edges of your velvet fabric from fraying, if you have a serger. Use a 2-thread overlock stitch to eliminate as much bulk as possible. You can cut the fabric with pinking shears.

4. How to determine the Nap of Velvet?

When buying Velvet for sewing clothes/ accessories you have to take into account its nap- the direction in which the pile of the fabric lies. Understanding the warp and weft of velvet can help you determine the direction of the pile, crucial for cutting and sewing.

In the direction of the nap ( running down) the fabric is smooth and shiny. It will also be light in color. Against the nap the color will be darker and it will be rough. You can tell by running your hands over the surface of velvet.

Just decide on the direction you fancy for your garment. Then cut all the pattern pieces in that direction. You can mark arrows on the back of the fabric to show the directions. Checkout  this post on nap for more details on this. 

You have to ensure that the pile of all the pattern pieces is in one direction. The pile of the fabric can be taken in any direction (though Velvet wears better with the nap running up, from bottom to top of the garment, but it feels smoother running down). Check it out both ways and decide on which one you want. One will be shinier. Follow the chosen direction in all your cuts. If you get two sleeves with piles in a different directions, it will look very odd and disjointed.

Because of this, you will also need to buy more fabric than for other fabrics where you can place the paper pattern in any way, and it would not matter.

Usually napping running up is used to cut patterns, because this way the fabric appears darker. 

5. How to Sew Velvet on your sewing machine?

Use very sharp Universal or Microtex needles for sewing velvet on your sewing machine; Use good quality cotton thread to sew velvet. A polyester thread also would do, as would a cotton-polyester blend. 

Placing paper beneath velvet while sewing can provide stability and ensure even stitching.

Because of the fuzzy surface, the velvet may at times refuse to move under the pressure foot, especially when sewing bulky joints; And at times the top layer will move leaving the bottom layer still under the pressure foot. Puckering of seams is a common problem when sewing velvet on a sewing machine.

Velvet can be sewn easily enough on the sewing machine with the regular stitch length and regular pressure foot – 2.5 mm mark . If you have a walking foot (even feed foot) or roller pressure foot the machine will move easier though. If you find any difficulty in sewing velvet layers slightly loosen the tension. Even then if puckering persists, increase the stitch length. 

You should also pin the layers together. Pinning may be a necessity to keep the fabric together as you sew. But it can leave visible holes, so be careful. Try in on a test piece before on the real cut patterns.

You can hand baste with hand sewing needle and silk thread instead of pinning. Actually this is a very good idea if you have the patience. Use a contrast colored thread so that you can easily unpick after you have done the stitching.

In store bought clothes you will find serged edges and a straight seam. You can do a hongkong finish on the edges for a couture look; When sewing a hem, this involves binding the edges with another piece of bias cut fabric strip or a net fabric strip. This is then turned to the back and sewin in place.

6. What interfacing to use with Velvet?

I would use a sew in interfacing with velvet. You cannot iron the iron on interfacing to velvet without risking the pile. Sometimes you may want something softer than interfacing – then you can use silk organza or batiste instead of interfacing. 

You get cool fuse interfacing (I do not get this at my shop ) – this is ideal for use with velvet. 

7. how to hem a velvet dress?

The cut edges of velvet do not fray much, as far as I have seen. So when hemming you do not have to turn under the edges twice. Simply turn once and stitch. This avoids bulk. You can serge the edges and then turn under the hem, as well( this is the best way)

I would prefer to work velvet hems with hand stitching. A catch stitch is best here or even the blind hem stitch. A catch stitch uses small fine herringbone stitches catching the turned under edge and the main fabric . This stitch gives a stretch to the hem which you need when sewing velvet. No more puckering or the turned under edge not easing up

If you have a flared skirt you will have to carefully hand roll the hem and sew with whip stitches.

8. Which is a good way to sew hems on velvet clothes with a sewing machine?

If you have a serger, use that to finish the edges and then sew the hem.

An  easy hem or edge finish for velvet fabric is to use a zig zag stitch; Fold the fabric to the inside twice and sew the zig zag stitch from the inside. This will create a nice edge for the velvet.

9. What fastenings work with velvet

You can choose to sew buttons with loops instead of buttonholes. Sewing buttonholes on velvet may prove challenging.If you are attaching zippers you may need to hand stitch them for a neat finish

A stitch which can work very well on velvet is the pick stitch. The stitch creates very small running stitches on the face of the fabric.These stitches are almost invisible on the pile of velvet. Checkout the tutorial for pick stitch for more details

10. How to finish the edges of the velvet?

Serging is one of the best ways to finish velvet edges. The serger trims the edge and encloses it in thread all in one step. For those without a serger, using a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine.

11. How to press velvet?

You need to press fabric during sewing as well as after – this is one of the golden rules of dressmaking. But velvet is a difficult fabric to iron. The pile of the velvet makes it difficult to iron. A touch of the hot iron and the pile will be destroyed, flattened. But in sewing, pressing is unavoidable.

Velvet can be pressed from the wrong side using a steam iron. Hold the steam iron a few inches from the velvet fabric. Move in the direction of the nap of the fabric.

There are special velvet boards available that have many projections that serve to keep the pile of velvet intact. The ordinary seamstress who does not have a board like that will have to make do with simple solutions like using a terrycloth underneath as a pressing cloth.. 

You can press the seams open on the  back of the fabric ( try fingerpressing first). Just be careful that you do not do so with too much force.  You can keep paper under seam allowances and darts to prevent imprints on the right side of the fabric .

Keep a terry towel underneath if you feel the pile will be flattened. 

You will see that while sewing some areas have become crushed, the pile is flattened. You can revive this flattened pile by steaming the velvet fabric slightly. Some have success by hanging it for sometime in a newly used hot shower area. You can also use a soft brush to brush the pile softly in place.