Tips to turn skinny jeans into bootcut, or flared ones

When you have old clothing that is neglected and forgotten, there is always a possibility of breathing new life into it with some patience and a sewing machine. And because denim is quite forgiving and everyone loves them in any form, jeans are perfect candidates for these makeovers.

I am thinking of turning my long-forgotten skinny-fit jeans into bootcut ones. Here’s how I did it:

Fashion is such a changeling. One moment, I read that flared jeans are the latest trend, and the next, I hear from somewhere else that they are not anymore. It’s hard to keep track – are straight jeans in vogue now, or is it bell bottoms, bootcuts, or are skinny jeans back again? Whatever you like, fashion being cyclical will come back for these, if they are not there already.

Anyways, as I want clothes which are just comfortable, and I have these ultra thin jeans which are no good as they are, to me, I think I am perfectly ready to make flared jeans or at least straight ones out of them.

Tips for turning Jeans into straight, flare, bell bottom, or boot cut style

Choosing the Fabric

Opt for a heavyweight fabric that matches the denim’s weight. It is better to choose a fabric that is of the same weight as the jeans you have for it to hang right.

You can use different patterns and colors for different effects. For eg. a psychedelic-colored paisley inserts can give off a 60s vibe; pastel colored floral prints can give a very girly vibe.

Choosing the Right Jeans

You do not need the perfect pair of jeans for this – but it helps if they fit you right at the waist, hips and thighs. You are not looking for a complete jeans alteration here. Just making flares under the knees.

Choose the flare you want

Deciding on the final flare of the jeans. Let us compare the different jeans styles.

Straight Jeans: No flare. Straight jeans maintain the same width from the hip down to the hem. They don’t taper inwards like skinny jeans, nor do they flare out.

Bootcut Jeans: Then comes Bootcut jeans with a slight flare. These are somewhat of a middle ground between straight and flared jeans. They start to widen slightly below the knee, with a width just enough to sit comfortably over boots.

Flared Jeans: Flared jeans have a moderate flare. They start to widen below the knee, creating a noticeable flare at the bottom.

Bell-Bottom Jeans: Bell-bottoms have a dramatic flare from the knee downwards. The hem circumference is larger, creating a bell-like shape. They were a major fashion statement in the ’60s and ’70s, so if you want the retro look, this is the one you should aim to make.

Cut off the hem edge

Cut open the pant leg

Measure the length from your ankle to your knee on your jeans. This is about how much you need to cut open on your jeans on the side seams.

But most skinny jeans are shorter, so you will want to add some extra length. Add the extra fabric to extend from the knee to the new, longer length.

Mark your jeans carefully before making the cut.

One alternative is to just cut off the front part of the jeans leg from the knee and replacing it with a fabric with a wider bottom edge. Here you are not adding godets, but straight up removing the leg fabric (only at the front or front and back) and using another wider fabric replacing it. There will be a stitching line across the knee.

Add extra length

This is optional. This extra length is to ensure the jeans will have a long length after the flare is added, considering the original short length of the skinny jeans. If this is not a problem, skip this.

Measure the length from the waistband (when you wear the jeans) to the floor. Measure your jeans. Subtract. This is how much extra you need to add to the length.

Cut out fabric pieces (better to get denim pieces from old jeans) in this length and add to the bottom edge.

Creating the Flare

I will be adding the flare as triangle inserts. These pieces are what transform your jeans into flared ones. In sewing parlance they are called godets.

Cut four triangles (17 to 18 inches tall, 4 to 7 inches wide at the base) from denim or your favourite fabric( of denim weight).

The width you choose for the base will depend on what you want – flare, bell bottom, or boot cut. Bootcut will have a less wider base than a bell bottom.

(Another option is to use a rectangular fabric piece. You can cut a larger rectangle the length and width matching the flare you want and pinning it in place between the fabric edges before sewing. After sewing, cut off the extra.)

You can sew the godets to the cut wrong sides together to get that cool, frayed look or wrong sides inside. Your call. If you want traditional looks or the frayed distressed looks.

When you reach the last seam, you may have to either sew from the top or sew from the inside. Add a top stitch for a polished look.

Finally, re-hem the jeans.

The distressed effect

This is the tutorial I watched before attempting this “upcycling” project.

To give a vintage feel, the lady in the tutorial is going for a subtle bleach effect for her jeans. This step is optional but highly recommended if you are looking for a unique, worn-in look.

Be cautious with the bleach, especially if your jeans have a synthetic blend and with your skin and health – work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective gloves.

Related posts : Jeans fits – guide; If you do not know terminology of jeans check it out in this list of Jeans model names